The Weekly Wrap-Up features articles from the last seven days of Photofocus. This week, Lauri Novak explained how to check our camera’s shutter count, Michèle Grenier gives us her final decision on switching to mirrorless, Levi Sim discusses using speedlights for portraits with waterfalls, Vanelli dives into the new Accent AI 2.0 with portraits and Chris Anson tells us how to register our drone with the FAA. Thanks for joining us this week on Photofocus!
How many actuations does my camera have? - I recently bought a new camera and will be using my older version for a backup. This means I have another old, older version sitting around unused. I decided to sell it and in the process of doing so, I wanted to check to see how many actuations (shutter clicks) it has so I could pass along that information. How do I check? There are a few ways to do this. You can take it to a camera shop or if you’re within driving distance of a dealer or manufacturer repair facility you can have them check for you. I’m guessing that this isn’t always an option. There are several apps you can download that will check for you. I downloaded the ShutterCount app on my MacBook, plugged in my old Canon T1i and it automatically pulls up the information. You can find the list of compatible cameras here. This is just one app I found in the App store for Apple. There are numerous other options out there. Here are a couple of sites I found with a quick search: FreeShutterCount.com: for Canon, Nikon and Sony available for Windows & Mac. CameraShutterCount.com: this is a different way of doing this, they have you shoot an image and upload it. Not all cameras upload shutter count information though as I found out when I uploaded an image and received this message: Your camera doesn’t add shutter count information to images. They directed me to the Shutter Count App. There are a few other apps available in the App Store that range from $.99 to $4.99. Why do I need to know this Like anything, our cameras have a life expectancy. It’s a good way to just check in with our equipment and get an idea of how much life is left in it. Then we can be prepared for the inevitable when that sad day comes and our camera stops working. It’s also good to know any time you plan on selling equipment, most buyers will want to know how much life the camera is expected to have after they purchase it.
I did it … I switched to mirrorless! - Yes, I said it!!! I sold my DSLRs and bought a brand new, out of the box, mirrorless camera body. Here is the last of my “DSLR to mirrorless” journey articles with (of course!) the big announcement of who between the Olympus OM-D E-M1X or the Sony a9 stole my heart! A Tinder-like adventure I like to compare my mirrorless quest to a Tinder match. First step: You look at the picture. Yeah, nice lookin’! Step two: Let’s learn a little more about you. Then, you transform yourself into a detective that even the CIA couldn’t match by first stalking their Instagram-Facebook-LinkedIn-Website-YouTube feeds and look at every possible review online. What are we looking for? We want to see if our potential match fits our values, our goals and (super important) our lifestyle. Of course, every prospect will fulfill different needs for different people (luckily … otherwise everyone would want to marry the same person or use the same camera …). Based on my very personal wants and desires, there were a couple of characteristics I was really looking for in a new camera. Fast autofocus, great low noise performance at high ISOs, extra fast burst rate, lightweight and solid stabilization capabilities. These topped my list of “won’t-live-without.” Swipe right I swept right for two of them (which you already know by now were the Sony a9 and the Olympus E-M1X). Based on their features, I thought both of them were in a very good place to suit my needs and I was looking forward to meeting both of them. Looking in each other’s eyes You know how it is. You stare at your computer or your cellphone screen for weeks. Daydreaming about how it would be if you ever met IRL. Everything that was written seemed so perfect, how could this NOT be love at first sight? I had very high hopes for both Mr. A (aka a9) and Mr. X (aka. E-M1X). And as you know exactly what I am talking about, you also know a single date — in real life — will either confirm or crush those hopes. Because it’s not only about “features” and “theory,” it’s all about chemistry! You will only know if it fits when you finally look into each other’s eyes and then actually DO something together! Love at first click Sometimes, the magic happens. Like … you KNOW he’s THE ONE. Everything flows. And it is exciting. And he makes you feel like you’re starting doing photography again. Some people have already experienced it, some others haven’t (yet) or don’t even believe in it. Every photographer has a way to handle his/her photographic love life. Some of you might think it’s too early for me to say but I am not afraid now to shout out from the rooftops … I AM IN LOVE! YES, I AM IN LOVE! And so was I when I handed a huge smile my hard earned money to the cashier. I had a deep conviction at this very moment, I was totally doing the right thing. That’s how I said “I do!” to this extremely fast, extremely smart and extremely beautifully performing specimen. I want him to be by my side, through all my good and bad photoshoots. I know having him as my partner will not prevent challenging days. But I know I can now rely on him to give me all that he’s got to help me succeed. One last surprise As Mr. A and I acquired some new lenses to kick off our life together, I indulged with one last bold investment. I preordered the new Sony 135mm f/1.8 GM lens. Hey, you know weddings are not cheap nowadays! This lens is a part of our honeymoon budget … My humble story That sure looks rainbows and butterflies and maybe even a unicorn or two, doesn’t it? But I really want you to know, all of this has not been (and still isn’t) an easy road. I started in photography as a lot of us do, with no money. I had a hard time finding the budget to buy my first camera — a used Nikon D5000 — for 400$CAD. From there, I went back to school full time to learn photography with no other income than my freelance contracts. When I finally got little money in the bank, I purchased my first full-frame (a used Nikon D750). Every dime I ever made I reinvested in my photography. I still live in a 400 square foot studio (with a real human husband — can you believe it?!) and I still drive an 11-year-old Honda Civic. I could’ve taken the a9 budget to clear my student loan, have a cash down payment for a house or buy myself a new(er) car. But I chose to put it all back into my photography. In case some of you are wondering: No, I am not richer than anyone else. The only reason I’ve been able to upgrade my business, my skills and my gear is that I am willing to make choices and the needed sacrifices according to achieve the priorities that really matter to me. Nothing has been given to me. I worked — and still am working — very hard. I love what I do. This is what fulfills me. I am extremely grateful to all the people and opportunities that came along the way. If you have a passion burning deep inside of you — be it photography or gardening or music — by all means, DO IT with all your heart. You’ll realize the harder you work, the luckier you get. Before long, you’ll be surprised by all the amazing things you can accomplish with your indomitable will. See, it’s not the end. It’s the beginning! I’m really enthusiastic for what’s coming my way in 2019. I can’t wait to share my new projects with you — which could very well start with a review of my highly anticipated 135mm
Portrait Tips: Waterfalls and speedlights - What’s not to love about making portraits in front of waterfalls? Beautiful place, beautiful people, water spraying your camera, nothing going the way you had in mind — it’s a blast! When you photograph a bride and groom in front of a waterfall, you need that smooth water look. If you use a fast shutter speed, the staccato splashing is too sharp and distracting. Instead, use a long shutter speed to let the water wash over itself during the exposure and create that soft smoothness that will compliment your portrait. Use a polarizer or ND filter But to get that long shutter speed, you’re probably going to need a filter on the lens to darken the whole picture. In this picture, I used a polarizer combined with an overcast day so it was just dark enough to get the shutter speed down to 1/13s at f/5.6. Looking back, I wish I’d used a smaller aperture and a little longer shutter speed — f/8 and 1/6s would have been great. Slowing the shutter would really have made the water look smooth. An ND filter could have let me slow it down further. Use a flash and software However, since it was overcast and since the couple was under dark trees, there was no light to set them apart from the scene. I needed to light them up with some flash. But I also wanted the light to be soft and focused only on them. That means I needed a large light (for softness) positioned very close to them (so it wouldn’t spill all over the scene). Using a wide-angle 15mm lens didn’t make it easy to get the close, though. But, since I was using a tripod to achieve the long shutter speed, the solution became clear: Composite two pictures together. My lovely assistant held the light in close in one frame, then backed out for the next shot. All I had to do in Luminar was to open both pictures as layers, then paint in the area without my assistant in it. After a couple of filter adjustments, the picture was ready. So, next time you find yourself in front of a waterfall with lovely subjects, remember to get that shutter speed going long, and don’t be afraid to use a little darkroom magic (Luminar magic) to get the picture looking just right. Portrait Tips come out each week, and you can see them all right here.
Utilizing Luminar’s Accent AI 2.0 for portrait retouching - Skylum Software’s latest update to Luminar 3 includes an all-new “human aware” Accent AI 2.0. The previous version did a great job automatically improving color, detail, tone and depth of an image but now, the new version pushes its artificial intelligence further by recognizing people in the photo and providing skin tone adjustments selectively for a more natural look. Here’s why the new Accent AI 2.0 is great for portraits. Quickly developing a portrait As a member of Skylum’s Education Development team, I received an early look at Accent AI 2.0. I took it through a series of test to see how well it handles my portrait workflow. Normally, I start with the Develop Filter to process a portrait. I ensure exposure is correct, then adjust the various settings — shadows, highlights, black and white sliders — to enhance the portrait. With the new update to Luminar, I found that in most cases, I can start with Accent AI 2.0 to accomplish a similar effect with just one slider, then continue with my edits. Different skin tones Accent AI 2.0 did a great job automatically adjusting an environmental portrait of Florida-based model Luis Morris. Normally, I would apply a few additional steps on darker skin tones to make the retouching look more natural. But Accent AI 2.0 adjusted the background properly and added to the overall effect when I started adding additional filters so I didn’t have to add the additional steps. Finishing a studio portrait While recording my Skylum’s Weekend Tips video, I stumbled upon another benefit of using Accent AI 2.0 to finish off an effect. At first, I applied the Brightness / Contrast Filter then added a Filter mask to bring out the Bokeh layer. It worked, but it took an extra step. So I applied the Accent AI 2.0 filter and it automatically adjusted the Bokeh but didn’t harm the subject. This isn’t a normal use you would think of for Accent AI 2.0, but it definitely does the trick. Apply Accent AI 2.0 when sending images to print I usually apply a small degree of sharpening to my images when preparing them for printing. Peecho — an Amsterdam-based cloud print company — graciously offered to print my “The Knight in the Field” image. The final size was 30-by-40 inches and was printed on Aluminum Dibond with Plexiglass. I knew I need a little extra sharpness printing that large. I applied Accent AI 2.0 and instantly it gave me the sharpness I wanted and improved the depth of the image along with adding an extra pop to the colors. It’s a subtle enhancement that makes larger prints look their best. How did Skylum develop the “human aware” technology? I’m not a software engineer, but it’s clear Skylum was able to train Accent AI 2.0 to recognize certain objects more effectively. I do know the engineers reviewed thousands of images to find the common elements photographers used to enhance their images, then trained Accent AI 2.0 to automatically analyze the image and improve color, detail, tone and depth of the image. They also added a new “person” class that didn’t exist before. Accent AI 2.0 is the photo equivalent of a spell-checker. Basic spell-checker reviews misspelled words then offers a suggestion to correct it. Higher-end spell-checkers such as Grammarly take it further by analyzing the complete sentence and then makes suggestions on how you can improve it. That’s what the engineering team did with Accent AI 2.0, resulting in a more realistic image. I’m not saying Accent AI 2.0 is perfect for every image, but it’s pretty close. Think of it as the Auto mode on your camera. Use it when you’re in doubt about editing an image or when you want to quickly make an image look better. It will definitely help you save time and is a great go-to filter for portrait retouching.
How to register your drone with the FAA as a recreational flyer - This is a follow-up article to Hobbyist drone flyers must register their drones. As of February 23, 2019, even if you are flying your drone for fun and recreation, and not for business purposes, you need to register your drone with the FAA. You’ll register under Section 336. The good news is that you only need to register once every three years and you use that same FAA number on all your drones. Yes, you need to display the FAA registration number on the outside of the drone where it is readily visible. So let’s get started. First, go to the FAADroneZone website. Here, you’ll need to register (create an account). Click on the Register button on the Fly Model Aircraft under Section 336. Now fill in the required information. Once you’ve created your account, login using your email and password here. Next, Click on the Register button Read the Acknowledgment of Safety Guidance and click the check box and then click Next/ Now you are ready to fill in the personal and credit card information. Then click Next. You’ll review and then confirm. Note that you can use this unique number for all your hobby drones. Once you have completed the process, you should receive your registration number by email. The next thing to do is to put your registration number, where it is visible, on the outside of the drone. One thing I did was to get the registration number printed on vinyl and then put it on my drone. The vendor I used was AerialPixel. From the vendor’s page: These decals are made of high quality vinyl that will last for years. Installation instructions are included, it’s as easy as clean, peal, stick, rub, remove! The decals are available in white, black, red, silver, gold or green. The decal can be installed on any smooth surface. So there you go! You’re now registered your drone with the FAA. Once you place your registration number in place you’ll be ready to fly. I hope you enjoyed this article and found it helpful! Fly Safe and Have Fun!
