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Enter To Win A Free Nikon D800 & 1 Year Mosaic Professional Backup Service

Posted by scottbourne on May 14, 2013
Posted in: Contest. Tagged: camera contest.

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Welcome to the next Photofocus contest. This contest starts May 14, 2013 and ends August 15, 2013. The winner gets the following:

Nikon D800 Body Only and

Mosaic Archive 2TB Backup Professional Plan free for one year

(PLEASE READ THIS PAGE CAREFULLY – IT ANSWERS ALL YOUR LEGITIMATE QUESTIONS ABOUT THE CONTEST!)

Here’s how to enter.

- Follow @ScottBourne on Twitter (http://www.twitter.com/scottbourne)
- Follow @mosaicarchive  on Twitter (http://www.twitter.com/mosaicarchive )

(If you are already following no need to unfollow and refollow – doing so repeatedly will get you permanently blocked and banned from our contests — we have recently blocked or banned several hundred followers who engaged in this practice after the last contest – if you are amongst those people – sorry – no need to enter because you are not eligible.)

- Tweet the message you see highlighted below once! (There is no advantage to tweeting more than once. There is also no penalty for tweeting more than once, but you won’t have any better chance of winning and you may anger your own Twitter followers if you decide to tweet more than once. Please keep track of your own entry here - http://photofocus.com/open-contests/. We can’t (and won’t) respond to requests asking about entry status.)

Twitter has changed its policy to no longer allow disabling of link shortening – so if you need to use a different link to get to the same exact contest page that’s fine. As long as people end up on this page – that’s all that matters. The rest of the Tweet must be identical to the one below.

Do NOT put the @ sign in front of Scott Bourne in the tweet. This is to cut down on noise to people who follow you and me.

Here is the Tweet:

Enter for a chance to win a Nikon D800 & Free Yr Mosaic Archive Pro from @mosaicarchive & Scott Bourne. Info http://bit.ly/15K8nVY

Official Rules: All general Bourne Media Group/Photofocus contest rules apply. In addition:

No purchase necessary to enter or win.

1. You must be 18 years or older to enter
2. You must be following Scott Bourne (http://www.twitter.com/scottbourne) and Mosaic Archive on Twitter –  (http://www.twitter.com/mosaicarchive)
3. You must send out the above tweet EXACTLY as it appears. A failure to do so will disqualify you.
4. The prize will be announced on August 15, 2013 by Scott Bourne via Twitter and on Photofocus.com.
5. US residents responsible for any taxes (if any) incurred as winner. If you live outside the US you are responsible for any taxes, custom duties and shipping in the event you win. We will only ship the prize to a US address. Foreign winners must be able to retrieve the prize from a US address to be eligible to win.
6. If users make lots of Twitter accounts in order to enter a contest more than once, they’re liable to get all of their accounts suspended. Anyone found to use multiple Twitter accounts to enter will be ineligible.

Scott Bourne will keep a record of each tweet in a database and then a random number generator picks the winner. Due to the volume of requests we receive, we cannot and will not answer ANY questions about the contest on Twitter or via e-mail. The information you need is all right here.

We are proud to be working with Mosaic Archive. Not only do they keep your photos safe, they let you see them on your portable device. Check out their amazing service and signup for their great, free Lightroom newsletter – MosaicArchive.

As always, if you are not a fan of these contests, please don’t participate. For the tens of thousands of you who do enjoy the contests, we’ll continue to try to find new contests and new prizes that will make it fun and interesting to be a part of the Photofocus family. Thanks for your support.

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Fuji X100s Camera Review

Posted by scottbourne on May 14, 2013
Posted in: Reviews. Tagged: Fuji X100s Camera Review.
Use this link to see a high-res version of this shot - http://www.flickr.com/photos/applephoneshow/8732211775/sizes/o/in/photostream/

Use this link to see a high-res version of this shot – http://www.flickr.com/photos/applephoneshow/8732211775/sizes/o/in/photostream/

All photos in this post are Copyright Scott Bourne - Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

There’s no doubt that Fuji has been shaking up the photography world lately. They’ve come up with some cameras that some describe as retro. I’d call them oddly wonderful. They all have a learning curve and they all have one other thing in common. They are hot commodities. Not everyone is taken with Fuji. Their first efforts in this space came up short in my opinion. And the X line is a bit polarizing. It’s like owning a Fiat 500. Some people run up and tell you it’s the coolest car they’ve ever seen. Others think it’s stupid. No matter where you fall on that spectrum, you should take another look at Fuji because their second iteration X100s is worth your consideration.

100% crop of detail area

100% crop of detail area

I decided to buy the Fujifilm X100S camera for review. I had no idea how hard it would be to try to find one. It was no easy task. The cameras is quickly gaining a reputation as a fun little unit that can be used for serious work. All the usual big name camera stores are sold out of the X100s. But the great folks at PRO PHOTO SUPPLY in Portland were able to get their hands on the last one anywhere and shipped it to me right away. I got the camera Friday, installed the latest firmware (version 1.02), charged the battery and went to work.

The basics of the X100s are simple. The camera uses a rangefinder metaphor and looks a little like the famous Leica cameras of old. (Specifically – it reminds me of the M3.) The internals are however quite different. The camera uses an APS-C 16M X-Trans CMOS sensor. (This is a very innovative sensor that delivers extraordinary low-light performance and super clean, sharp images.) There is no other company producing such a sensor and this is just the first place where the X100s is different. The sensor on the X100s (like the one on the Nikon D800e) doesn’t have an anti-alias filter. Instead Fuji uses what they call a color filter matrix (whatever that is) to accomplish the same thing. Unfortunately, Adobe Camera Raw doesn’t quite know what to do with it – more on that in a  minute.

Panoramic shot stitched in-camera

Panoramic shot stitched in-camera

Fuji has also developed a new hybrid viewfinder. Most cameras in this class use an electronic view finder, but Fuji figured out a way to make a cross-over viewfinder that gives you both an optical viewfinder and an electronic viewfinder. It’s not only different, it’s amazing. It’s quirky and takes a few days to get used to, but once I got the hang of it I found myself thinking (“Why isn’t everyone doing this?”) I prefer an optical viewfinder every time.

The camera has a fixed focal length lens (23mm f/2) EFL of 35mm f/2. So in some ways it might be tempting to consider this no more than a point and shoot or pocket camera, but it is much more. And it will only fit in your pocket if you’re big like me! Regardless of how you classify it, the technology and the results it generates are both very sophisticated and professional.

Shot using the camera's faux HDR filter.

Shot using the camera’s faux HDR filter.

The camera handles well. Because of its overall quirkiness you need to shoot with it a while before you get comfortable. But it’s rock solid and well-constructed. It offers a die-cast magnesium alloy top and base plate. While it’s solid, it doesn’t feel heavy. In fact, it feels downright light.

Like other mirror-less cameras I’ve tested, battery life is nothing to write home about. I got between 250 and 275 shots per charge depending on how I used the camera. I’d suggest buying a second battery when you get the camera. Heck I’d suggest getting three. One problem with the camera is the battery life indicator is sort of like a fuel gauge on a motorcycle. It says you have a full tank, then 3/4 and then half and then…then nothing. The battery dies off pretty much right after you get to the half-way point on the battery meter. Fuji should tune this up in the next firmware update.

If you read the reviews of the original X100 you might be worried about the camera’s autofocus. Well no need to. The AF is just fine. It’s not lightening-quick like the Olympus OMD but it’s not far behind. There is also a neat option to allow focus peaking (used typically in video cameras) that aides in manual focus. A fellow who is famous for reviewing cameras he’s never seen says the manual focus ring isn’t that easy to use. I completely disagree. In my opinion, the Fuji X100s is one of the easier cameras in the world to manually focus. And while the focus peaking doesn’t work as well as it might in a video camera, it works well enough.  There is also an option that allows you to use an old-fashioned split-prism (found in most rangefinder cameras) to manually focus. My eyesight isn’t good enough to use this feature but I also like the custom setting that allows you to just touch the manual focus ring, and the camera zooms to 100% of the center of the image. Olympus offers this on some of its cameras, including the OMD and I really like it. In most cases I just use autofocus with great results.

First RAW file I processed. It took a little extra work but came out fine. I am not sure it is any better than it could have been in JPG only.

First RAW file I processed. It took a little extra work but came out fine. I am not sure it is any better than it could have been in JPG only.

The Fuji lens fitted to the X100s is very sharp. It’s a just a tiny tad soft wide open (not distressingly so) but f/2.8 and beyond it’s spot on and ultra-sharp. It also has amazing close-focusing distance (0.21 meters.) Did I mention the lens is sharp? Well it really, really is. And it provides a very pleasing bokeh. The distortion on the lens, even wide open is almost immeasurable. Oh and one more astounding feature offered with this lens – it uses a leaf shutter. Yep you can use 1/800th of a second sync shutter speeds (the shutter sync speeds depend on how much you stop down.) This is great for using flash outdoors or in bright or backlit conditions. It’s also dead quiet. This camera is quieter than any camera I’ve shot with in a blimp. You could shoot movie stills all day with this and nobody on set would even notice. If stealth is your game, then this is your camera.

The camera also comes with a cute little built-in flash that’s perfect when you just need a little catchlight in the eye. If you know what you’re doing, you can actually use it to overpower harsh sun for a little fill on the face or a nice catchlight. It’s actually useful. It also acts as a trigger for optical slave strobes.

In the field I started my tests shooting the Fuji in JPG mode. The only other Fuji digital camera I ever tested worked well in this mode but I can safely say that jpegs from the X100s are simply the best out of the camera jpegs I’ve ever seen. Period. The color is magnificent, skin tones perfect and overall look enjoyable. This may be the first camera I’ve ever owned that I won’t shoot full-time in RAW mode.

This is the camera's filter emulating a tilt-shift effect.

This is the camera’s filter emulating a tilt-shift effect.

Even in jpeg mode the camera seems to have a very wide dynamic range. And since you’re using a fast lens, Fuji throws in a built-in, three-stop ND filter to help knock down the light on bright days. I’ve been saying for years someone needs to do this and Fuji is the one to get it right. Man I love this feature.

I like that you can shoot in square format or 16×9 or 3×2, etc. This helps pre-visualize the scene. I also like playing with the art filters. Some of them are pretty good. I was less impressed with the in-camera panoramic stitching. It works better in scenes without solid color. There’s plenty of banding (which you can remove in post) but it’s just easier to stitch panos in Photoshop.

The meter is solid. The camera response time is good. The image quality – well that is freaking amazing. IQ is all that matters to me when I select a camera and the X100s has stupendous image quality.  Up to ISO 1600 the camera is superb. Even at ISO 3200 it’s very good. The noise there isn’t the kind that stands out. I am blown away by the low-light performance of a camera with this size sensor. It’s superior to anything I’ve tested.

1/4000th sec at f/4 ISO 200 Processed RAW in LR4

1/4000th sec at f/4 ISO 200 Processed RAW in LR4

You’ve seen me say this is an odd – quirky camera. Here’s an example: The camera does take a while to wake up from sleep so I set mine to high-performance mode and the maximum time before shutting off. It is still very sluggish to come back to life. I find that I have to turn the camera off and back on to wake it up reliably and quickly. Not a deal breaker but something that you should be aware of.

Accessing all the cool features of this camera takes practice. The shutter speed, exposure compensation, and aperture control are all dials. Aperture control is on the lens, where it belongs (older photographers will rejoice at this – we are used to this being how to set the aperture.) You set the “drive mode” by pressing the drive button and then using the scroll wheel to make your selection. This lets you choose single shot, three or six frames per second, multiple exposure mode, auto bracket mode, movie mode, and panoramic mode. The view mode button lets you select between LCD, viewfinder or both. The AE button lets you set your meter mode. The AEL/AFL lock button works as expected. You can cycle between three different info display modes using the display button. There is a command wheel that makes it easy to get to WB, Flash and and Macro mode. There is also a function button that you can assign to do about any job (I have mine set to ISO) and that’s where things become dicey. I would have really liked an actual ISO dial because most of the camera’s controls are buried in nested menus. That function button could come in handy for lots of other features. Thankfully, Fuji took most (not all) of the sting out of the deep menu system with a quick menu button (also called a “Q” button,) Olympus has made these popular. The Q-botton gives you quick and convenient access to the camera’s important functions. You can see the quick menu in either the viewfinder or on the LCD.

1/1700th sec at f/4 - macro mode approximately 4.5 inches from the subject.

1/1700th sec at f/4 – macro mode approximately 4.5 inches from the subject.

With all this cool stuff you’d expect a stiff price tag and you’d be right. The camera cost $1299. You can buy a D7100 for that. You can buy many other low-end DSLR’s with kit lens for much less. And for that kind of money you would think that Fuji threw in the kitchen sink. But oddly, there are a few things missing. There is also no GPS or WiFi. There is no intervalometer. There is no lens hood. (Fuji must be copying Olympus. Come on Fuji. $1300 and no lens hood? Really?) In fact, you can’t even screw on a filter without the Fuji adapter. They sell the hood and the 49mm filter adapter as a kit for under $80 (Fujifilm LH-x100 Lens Hood And 49mm Thread Adapter.) So really, you have to consider the cost of the camera to be $1379 since you can’t really use it without the hood and adapter. (Nickel and dime stuff always bugs me but it’s the way things are.)

It seems that the younger generation care more about what their cameras look like than my generation did. And retro is in. There’s no disappointment here. The X100s has loads of character and lots of folks think it’s an old time camera at first blush. To make it feel even more retro, check out the LC-X100 leather case. Now your ticket is punched at more than $1500, but in for a penny in for a pound.

PROS

1. Super sharp lens
2. Amazing, professional-level image quality
3. Lightweight, compact and stealthy
4. Best in-camera jpegs in the world
5. Film-emulation built in
6. Leaf-shutter lens
7. One of the best low-light performing cameras I’ve tested
8. Just plain fun

CONS
1. Expensive
2. Limited to built-in lens (EFL 35mm) NOTE A screw-on wider-angle adapter is also available for this camera from Fuji. I did not test it.
3. Short battery life
4. Too many nested menus
5. The tripod socket is too close to the battery door making it impossible to use straps like the Black Rapid strap.
6. There is no way to mount a filter to the fixed lens without buying an expensive adapter.

CONCLUSION

The Fuji X100s is a quirky, odd, retro camera with a fixed focal length lens and it cost more than most DSLRs. But it’s also quieter, smaller and easier to carry than most DSLRs. It’s expensive for sure. But it happens to offer some of the finest in-camera image quality I’ve seen in any digital format and at any price. Those of you who practice the religion of low-light will also be thrilled with its dynamic range and low-light performance up to ISO 6400.

The camera’s competition is not the DSLR, it’s the other retro-style, compact cameras. On paper, the X100s does not stand up well to cameras like the Olympus PEN E-P5 (just announced and untested so I said “on-paper.”) But I doubt that will deter many potential buyers. Fuji has done a good job of marketing this camera and while it has its quirks, I am certain it’s the most fun camera I’ve owned in a long time. It’s worth waiting for.

Street and travel photographers will love this camera. It also has a place in landscape, event and automotive photographers’ cases. The EFL 35mm lens is not ideal for standard portraiture but would be fine for environmental portraits. If you can live with the fixed lens, you could conceivably use this as your only camera and do well.

You can find more versatile cameras and cheaper cameras but you’d be hard pressed to find a cooler camera that delivered perfect jpegs without the need for post-processing and stellar image quality.

Highly Recommended.

This Post Sponsored by:

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The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images. Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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Relighting a Car in Post

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 13, 2013
Posted in: Screencast, Technique & Tutorials. Tagged: lighting, masking, Photoshop, post. 3 comments

Guest Post & Photos by Levi Sim - Circle Levi on Google+

© Levi Sim

I wanted to make a photograph of a car that looked like it had been shot in one of those fancy studios with the enormous soft boxes, but I had to do it on the grass at the fair grounds. This video shows how I made it happen using layer masks in Photoshop.

Relighting a Car in Post from Photofocus Video Channel on Vimeo.

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This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images. Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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How to Sign Your Work

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 12, 2013
Posted in: Tips. Tagged: finsihing, Photoshop, signature. 7 comments

A popular trend these days is to sign your images when posting online.  The thought is to treat the image more like it was being shown in a gallery and less like pixel dust in the wind. The process is really pretty easy to do.  I’d also like to state that this is a much more attractive way to watermark a photo.

Here’s the process for Photoshop Users

  1. Sign your name… take your time and give it a few tries.  If you’re using pen and paper, go with a thicker felt tip pen or marker.  If using a tablet, that works too.  Be sure to create a nice large signature so you’ll have plenty of pixels to work with.
  2. Scan or digitally capture the signature at a very high resolution.  You’re likely adding this to high-resolution imagery, so better to start large and scale down (instead of up).
  3. Clean up your signature with a Levels adjustment to make the whites and blacks crisp.
  4. Save two versions of your file.  One black on white and one white on black.  You can choose Image > Adjustments > Invert to make a negative image.
  5. When you’re ready to sign, choose File > Place and navigate to your signature file.  Choose the black or white signature based on your photo background.

  6. Scale the image to taste by dragging a corner handle.  Be sure to hold down the shift key to constrain the proportions of the scale.
  7. When ready to place the image, press the Return (Enter key).  The layer is added as a Smart Object which can be scaled or resized as needed.
  8. To blend the signature file, change the layers blending mode.  Use Multiply to drop out the white background or Screen to drop out the black.

There you have it… a classy watermark that’s easy to reuse on all your online photos.

Do you have a favorite way to sign your digital images?  Share it in the comments please.

_______ 

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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A Logical Approach to Post Production Workflow

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 11, 2013
Posted in: Technique & Tutorials. Tagged: Color Correction, post. 6 comments

ppcc_ch18_001

Many often have a difficult time when color correcting or enhancing images. They generally lose sight of the goal: making the image look better while still being believable. Many users go “too far” in their quest to fix images. If the image starts to look fake or too altered, it will be distracting. Although getting it “right” requires some practice, here’s some general advice to get you started:

  • Identify what’s wrong. Before you can fix a picture, be sure you have decided on what’s wrong. Is it too dark? Is the sky washed out? Has the picture faded over time? Make a list and prioritize the issues you find in each image. It’s easiest to fix one problem at a time, and if you identify those problems, you’ll know when to stop twiddling with the image.
  • Work with a copy of the image. Before you start to color correct an image, you should duplicate it or make a new version. This way you can return to an original version if you make a mistake or go too far in your image touch-up. After opening your file, choose File > Save As and name the duplicate version that will be corrected. Color correction can be a destructive process, meaning that you cannot revert to the original state at a later time. By preserving an original version of the image or employing adjustment layers, you make nondestructive editing possible. Some users also choose to duplicate the Background layer at the bottom of the layer stack.
  • Edit with adjustment layers or live adjustments. Adjustment layers allow you to apply most of the image correction commands as nondestructive effects. They are added as a layer above the actual image; the adjustment layer can be blended, masked, or deleted at any time. Additionally, if you select the adjustment layer, you can modify its properties in the Adjustments panel. The same modifications are available in both the Adjustments menu and Adjustments panel. You should work with an adjustment layer whenever possible because its flexibility will be important for future revisions. Most of the edits you make with Lightroom or Aperture are nondestructive.
  • Get a fresh opinion. It’s not a bad idea to step back and examine your work. Open the backup copy of the original image and compare it to the image you’ve been working on. This before-and-after comparison can be very useful. If you have a fresh set of eyes nearby, ask that person for his or her opinion.

_______

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images. Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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Microsoft Windows 8X by HTC Phone/Camera Mini Review

Posted by scottbourne on May 10, 2013
Posted in: Reviews. Tagged: Microsoft Windows 8X by HTC Phone/Camera Mini Review.

8X-Press-02-380-75

So that all of you who are ardent fans of various phones won’t feel slighted, I’ll start this review by saying I own the following phones…

(In no particular order)

1. iPhone 5
2. Android Samsung S3
3. Windows HTX 8x

Most of you who have followed me a while will be shocked to see anything other than an iPhone on this list, let alone a Microsoft product. But things change. And so do my needs and opinions. While I’ve been wrongly accused of being a Mac fanboy, the fact is, when I find something that works, I buy it, without regard for brand loyalty. In the past, Apple did a good job of making things that just worked well for me. So I bought a bunch of Apple products. All along, I continued to test other products. And for a long time, I didn’t find anything better. That has changed.

Lately, all things Apple have been disappointing to me. I’ve had struggles with quality control on the last four Apple products I bought, including the iPhone 5 (I got an unexplained blue line that ran down the left side of the phone and was on the screen at all times.) I got a new iPhone 5 and all the other Apple problems I’ve experienced were repaired with one exception, that being my MacBook Air which I just haven’t had time to deal with.

Since I have seen Apple also degrade or semi-abandon the pro market (along with many of the products I depend on,) I made the decision to break free (hard as it may be) from the Apple eco-system.

I started with Android. Sorry – but three strikes and you’re out. I went through several Android phones. The latest was the Samsung S3. While the S3 is a very capable phone (in the right hands) it’s not something I need or want. I know, I know – it’s blasphemy to say something bad about Android. Kill me. I’m okay with not being one of the cool kids. Android is kludgy and buggy. Period. There are no real standards (10 people told me I could do something I couldn’t because Android is implemented differently depending on the phone AND then depending on the carrier.) The Android phone is so unstable it reminds you to reboot it every two weeks. It doesn’t exactly instill confidence. Thanks but I will pass.

That left me few choices. A guy who works for me occasionally said he just got the Windows 8 phone and loves it. Well guess what…so do I! It’s an amazing phone. It is a great compromise between an iPhone and Android and for me personally, it does everything I need, and does it well.

Where Android is unstable, Windows 8 phones (like iPhones) are more of a closed architecture so you don’t have to worry about apps crashing your phone. The interface is easy, fun, flexible, fast and intuitive. More so than either the S3 or even the iPhone (which is a close second.)

The Windows phone (running on Verizon 4G LTE) is fast and responsive. It has good call quality (yes it is important since well – it’s a phone too you know.) I know it’s silly but I like the fact that it has a dedicated Dr. Beats amp built right into the phone – yes SHOCK! I have a pair of Dr. Beats headphones – I wear them on planes to cancel the noise of travel.

The apps you say? What about the apps? Like the iPhone, there are plenty of apps to suit me. With Dropbox included with (I originally said integrated which one of my pedantic readers pointed out was different than included – sorry for any confusion) the phone, you can automatically save all your photos and videos to Dropbox. There are tons of other apps available too, including many photo apps. The programmer/hacker/cool kids/phone geeks won’t ever be satisfied because this is (like the iPhone) a closed system, but all the apps most of you really need are available on a Windows 8 phone.

Before I evaluate the camera in the phone I want to talk about the screen, which is almost as important. Why? We photographers tend to like to look at and show our photos to people. And if the phone is all you have with you to show your work, that’s what you’ll end up using. So the screen matters. The screen on the Windows HTX 8X is an HD display at 720×1280. It’s spread over 4.3 inches, and in my opinion is as sharp as Apple’s retina display. I like it.

And now let’s get to the nitty gritty. How is the camera? I’ve read reviews that say it is sub-par when compared to both the S3 and the iPhone, but my experience is quite different.

There is a front facing camera (which I never use) and the standard rear-facing camera. It’s eight megapixels with a lens set at f/2.0. On the video front, the HTC 8X gives you a full HD camera at 1080p with 30fps.

I think the S3, iPhone 5 and the HTC 8X have good cameras and it all depends on the apps/software you get to run them when it comes to making a difference. I don’t think if I posted images from all three phones side-by-side, any consistent number of people could reliably tell them apart. The Windows HTC 8X has about the same camera specs as the others, but I actually think the Windows phone has an edge from a usability standpoint – thanks to a nifty little thing called lenses. (And I am not talking about the glass things you attach to your DSLR to take pictures.)

In Windows Phone 8, you can create a camera app called a lens. A lens opens from the built-in camera app and launches right into a viewfinder experience to help the user capture the moment. But not all lenses stop at capturing photos. Some lenses, called rich media lenses, provide a unique experience for viewing or editing photography. Other lenses use the camera as a gateway to a different experience. For example, a bar code reader lens might use the camera to scan a bar code and then display related data from the local folder.

There are plenty of phone apps based on lenses, and there are all the usual social media sharing apps like Twitter, Facebook, G+ etc. Using these apps, you can do anything from making panoramic photos (more on that in a minute) to advanced editing and effects manipulation. You can back these images up to Windows SkyDrive (think iCloud only it works) and you can share them with the tap of a button.

So far, my favorite photo app on the Windows 8 phone is Photosynth. Think of a Gigapan in your pocket. This app blows away any other panoramic photography app I’ve seen and it’s not even close. It’s automatic. It’s powerful. It’s fun and it works.

You’re not limited to moving in one direction. You can start up high and finish low and the Photosynth app just stitches everything together.

There is an actual shutter button on the HTC 8X. While most phones are starting to implement this feature, I like the fact that you can go from a locked screen to taking a picture with a camera shutter key. You can also tap anywhere on the screen to take a photo.

The phone’s camera is as capable in my opinion as any smart phone camera I’ve tested.

Should you buy one? I don’t know. It depends on what’s important to you. No smart phone is perfect. The S3 had removable storage and a removable battery. While the removable bits weren’t something I needed often, I do miss those features. On the other hand, the Windows phone screen is great – the phone’s operations are rock solid and it feels good in the hand. I have yet to have it freeze on me. I’ve never needed to reboot it. I like the cool charging pad you just lay the phone on and like magic, the phone is charged.

I don’t buy smart phones based on their camera. I buy them because I need a portable phone. But I am glad the camera works as well as it does. I rely on my micro four thirds cameras when I want to do serious photography, but I do enjoy using the HTC 8X phone’s camera, especially with Photosynth.

This is the flagship Windows 8 phone. It’s well-built, and in my opinion, the best phone currently on the market.

Highly recommended. (And you can bet I never thought I’d be saying that about ANYTHING associated with Microsoft.)

_______ 

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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Retrographer (Vintage Photo Effects) — Mini Review

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 9, 2013
Posted in: Reviews. Tagged: retro, software. 1 comment

One of my favorite plug-in discoveries  is Retrographer from Mr. Retro.  It works in Photoshop, Lightroom, Photoshop Elements, Aperture, iPhoto.The plug-in designed to create authentic vintage photography effects. I’m already a big fan of Mr. Retro’s Machine Wash plug-in which ages text and images, and this versatile package really delivers. The manufacturer claims that users can perfectly re-create any vintage camera look including Lomo, Dianne, Holga, Polaroid, Brownie, Kodak, and Daguerreotype.  I’d say the claims are true.

To start there are a wide range of presets – over 1,100 preset camera settings to choose from.

But the presets are just starting points.  You’ll find total contra over all aspects. You can adjust:

  • Lens – Control focus and distortion.
  • Flash – Control light and spot effects.
  • Film – Control tone and grain for a unique look.
  • Lab – Control exposure, color, and hue.
  • Effects –Add vignettes, light leaks,and  halftones.
  • Finish – Add detailed textures and frames.

I really liked the toning and grain controls.  They are some of the most versatile I’ve ever found.

I found that the filter was very versatile…  although some of the controls were almost too deep.  Also, a small drawback, some effects require you to enter X and Y coordinates into field (hopefully sliders or draggable controls will appear in the future). The only other drawbacks that it is an 8-bit only filter…  but I guess the logic goes if you’re going to age or stylize your image this much, 16-bit color fidelity goes out the window.

I really liked the Finish Controls. a great library of textures and vignettes really added to the image.  I also found the natural media approach to be truly refreshing and inline with how I would do these techniques manually (whether digitally or physically processing).

The controls definitely show how serious the developer was about the product.  While there are a few oddities and gaps, this really is an amazing product (especially for a discerning photographer who wants precision).  If your brain wants to just roll the dice… one nice option is clicking the Auto button (the second button in the top bar).  This will generate random looks and is a great way to experiment.  The other two buttons link to a detailed user manual and a useful preset gallery online.

To find out more and see more examples of Retrographer in action, simply head to: http://www.misterretro.com/filters/retrographer

_______ 

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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