Should you calibrate your lenses for razor-sharp focus? Well, this is a really good question. But the answer is not so specific. If you have a DSLR camera, the answer is yes, but if you have a newer mirrorless the answer is not so clear-cut.
Why calibrate for DSLR?
Because these cameras have a separate AF (autofocus) chip, the mirror moves up and down, allowing the light to hit the sensor and it can vary from setup to setup.
What you are doing when you calibrate a DSLR is actually moving the AF chip slightly to align better with the sensor. These AF micro adjustments can be done in your camera. Refer to the manual for the make and model of your camera.
Why not in a mirrorless?
In many mirrorless cameras, the AF chip is built into the sensor, so there is really nothing to move. Some claim that calibration is irrelevant and no longer required with mirrorless cameras.
Sony Alpha cameras still have AF micro adjustments listed in the menu system, but I have recently found out that is designed to calibrate non-Sony E-mount lenses with an adapter.
Should you calibrate your lenses anyway?
I brought a cheap calibration kit and went about testing every lens I own. With my Sony, every single lens was perfect. So that gave me some peace of mind.
That was the real point of this exercise, to double-check. We spend a lot of money on our glass and it’s nice to know it’s working to peak performance.
How to calibrate your lenses for razor-sharp focus
1. Setup your calibration device on a sturdy surface
Set your camera up on a tripod and test various lenses by setting your autofocus on the middle circle. This may take some time, so patience is the key. Use the smallest aperture value your lens will allow, say f/1.4 or f/3.5 (depending on your lens). I would also suggest center focus point and the smallest focal point possible for your camera.
2. Take multiple images with each lens and check!
You can double check on live view, but to be honest you really need to see it on a bigger screen to be sure. Make sure the center point on the calibration device, or the -0- is tack sharp. On all of mine, it was.
3. If your focus is in front or behind the -0- marker, then your AF is off
On a DSLR you can then adjust this for your camera using the AF Micro Adjustment setting. Perhaps Google it for your make and model. It can be fiddly and again patience is required … this is not a 10-minute job.
What about the firmware in the camera and lenses?
This is something else entirely and definitely worth looking into — especially with your camera. Updating the firmware is not quite as scary as I first thought, either. There are loads of tutorials online for your camera. Check out the manufacturer’s website for not only your camera, but for your lenses, too.
Good to know! As a Sony mirrorless user I had wondered about doing this but nice to know I can save a few dollars and not worry :)
I agree with you Judi, I bought a kit and calibrated them anyway, as I can also use the kit on other older DSLRs too. But it’s nice to know I didn’t really have to
I calibrate my lenses every time I have taken them out anywhere that they have been jostled pretty hard. I also calibrate them when I have an important shoot coming up and especially when I think I might be forced to crop a lot. Such as birds in flight. It doesn’t take all that long and I only have to change the setting about every third or fourth time. One other thing will cause me to calibrate. I usually calibrate my 200-500mm at 500mm. And my 70-200mm at 200mm. But if I know that I am going to be shooting… Read more »
As a predominantly prime shooter I never thought of calibrating at the end of the zoom range, so that’s a good point too Steve. I assume you are shooting with a DSLR? Is there much difference between the calibration at 200mm and 500mm on that lens?
There is more on the 200-500mm f/5.6 than there is on the more expensive 70-200mm f/2.8
My crazy expensive 120-300mm f/2.8 seems to be perfect at zero at both ends. But that is possibly because I am just so darn careful with it. :)
I have two DSLRs that I use. The full frame Nikon D750 and the crop sensor D500.
I guess that makes sense, especially with the expensive glass. Love the D750, great camera
Does anyone calibrate at different f stops of just wide open?
Thats a good question, I don’t see any reason why you can’t calibrate at different f/stops, but I was also taught to go wide open