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[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xPeaX0Y9bU&w=560&h=315]
How to Remove Purple Fringing in Photoshop from Scott Bourne on Vimeo.
Contributor Nicole Young shows you how to Remove Purple Fringing in Photoshop.
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Photographer, author, entrepreneur. I love photographing food and landscapes, and have written several how-to books on Photography, post-processing, and creative inspiration.
You can find more about me on my blog, online store, as well as on Google+ and Twitter.
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Thanks Nicole, I recently shot a friends wedding with a Nikon 50mm f1.4 on a D300 and nearly every photo had chromatic aberration, especially around the white wedding dress and white shirts on the mens clothes. Any thoughts on preventing or reducing this? I have never noticed it to this extent before and it only seems to happen with the 50!?!
This is really useful, thanks so much.
I joined istock as a contributor after being inspired by your interview on twip and have had a few photos rejected due to purple fringing; so thanks for the tip.
I’ve also had a few problems with artefacting, so any future help on dealing with this would be appreciated.
Do you think it could be lens specific? As in MY 50mm lens has problems but another nikon 50 f1.4 is fine.
I also (foolishly) had a cheap UV filter on the front, does that impact CA?
I know I’m milking you for info!!
Thanks Nicole, I recently shot a friends wedding with a Nikon 50mm f1.4 on a D300 and nearly every photo had chromatic aberration, especially around the white wedding dress and white shirts on the mens clothes. Any thoughts on preventing or reducing this? I have never noticed it to this extent before and it only seems to happen with the 50!?!
Great technique, Nicole, thanks very much. I’m new to iStockPhoto, and I’ve had a couple of photos rejected for CA. I’ve just used your technique on one photo and it worked really well. Resubmit time I think!
This is really useful, thanks so much.
I joined istock as a contributor after being inspired by your interview on twip and have had a few photos rejected due to purple fringing; so thanks for the tip.
I’ve also had a few problems with artefacting, so any future help on dealing with this would be appreciated.
Do you think it could be lens specific? As in MY 50mm lens has problems but another nikon 50 f1.4 is fine.
I also (foolishly) had a cheap UV filter on the front, does that impact CA?
I know I’m milking you for info!!
What are your opinions on PS plugins, like PTLens?
Or what about just painting over the aberrations with the history brush?
Great technique, Nicole, thanks very much. I’m new to iStockPhoto, and I’ve had a couple of photos rejected for CA. I’ve just used your technique on one photo and it worked really well. Resubmit time I think!
Great technique… just a little tricky when the background color is close to the fringe color!
The Canon 2.8 24-70 does it all the time :(
What are your opinions on PS plugins, like PTLens?
Or what about just painting over the aberrations with the history brush?
@Colin – You were using a pretty good lens, and sometimes it’s just going to be in the photo. I have noticed considerable differences when using my Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 (more CA) vs. my Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 (much less CA), and image in the tutorial was shot with the nicer Nikon lens but, as you can see, it’s not always avoidable. It’s usually in areas where there is a lot of contrast in an images, and with a white wedding dress it’s probably just going to be difficult to avoid. I don’t know ALL the technical info behind why it… Read more »
Great technique… just a little tricky when the background color is close to the fringe color!
The Canon 2.8 24-70 does it all the time :(
Nicole this is awesome! It really helps a lot because I just got a kick back for my submittal to istockphoto. It was for this very reason. I had a great shot of some chimps and their black hair and sun light just didn’t interact well. Thanks for the tips.
@Colin – You were using a pretty good lens, and sometimes it’s just going to be in the photo. I have noticed considerable differences when using my Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 (more CA) vs. my Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 (much less CA), and image in the tutorial was shot with the nicer Nikon lens but, as you can see, it’s not always avoidable. It’s usually in areas where there is a lot of contrast in an images, and with a white wedding dress it’s probably just going to be difficult to avoid. I don’t know ALL the technical info behind why it… Read more »
I’m pretty sure it’s lens specific; usually when you see a lens review they usually mention how good or bad the CA is with each lens. And I would guess that adding a filter to the front of it could possibly increase the chances (especially since most filters are cheaper-quality than the glass you are putting it in front of; I usually don’t use filters with the work I do when I’m using a good lens.)
Nicole this is awesome! It really helps a lot because I just got a kick back for my submittal to istockphoto. It was for this very reason. I had a great shot of some chimps and their black hair and sun light just didn’t interact well. Thanks for the tips.
I’m pretty sure it’s lens specific; usually when you see a lens review they usually mention how good or bad the CA is with each lens. And I would guess that adding a filter to the front of it could possibly increase the chances (especially since most filters are cheaper-quality than the glass you are putting it in front of; I usually don’t use filters with the work I do when I’m using a good lens.)
I honestly don’t use hardly any plug-ins; all I have really worked with is just the original Photoshop plug-ins that come with the program.
As for the history brush, I don’t really like to use it when I process photos. I prefer to have all of my adjustments non-destructive and easily changeable (adjustment layers and masking); I only use the history panel to reverse a change, or to make a snapshot of the image while I’m working on it.
I honestly don’t use hardly any plug-ins; all I have really worked with is just the original Photoshop plug-ins that come with the program.
As for the history brush, I don’t really like to use it when I process photos. I prefer to have all of my adjustments non-destructive and easily changeable (adjustment layers and masking); I only use the history panel to reverse a change, or to make a snapshot of the image while I’m working on it.
Another great video Nicole. Keep them coming!
Another great video Nicole. Keep them coming!
Very helpful tutorial!
Keep up the great work Nicole :)
Very helpful tutorial!
Keep up the great work Nicole :)