Almost every major camera manufacturer offers a feature called focus peaking on their system. The name may vary slightly by manufacturer, and even by camera. For example, Nikon calls this feature “Peaking Highlights” on some cameras and “Focus Peaking” on others. However, whatever the name, the results are the same.
Often when using a large aperture like f/2.8, you get a small or narrow depth of field. A small horizontal slice of the image, rather than the whole image in focus. This could be due to shooting in low light or wanting to keep your background in blur. The problem
When I switched from Nikon to the Panasonic Lumix system last spring, I was nervous. I had used Nikon for more than three years. It was my bread and butter — I knew it inside and out. And it worked great. But one thing it wasn’t was innovating. I started
I started photography with a K1000 camera which required manual focus and had a cat’s eye style focusing screen. It was very apparent when I was focused at the wrong distance because the top and bottom halves of the image were misaligned and fuzzy looking. Digital SLR’s, however, don’t have
I do not consider myself a “bird photographer.” I just happen to photograph birds now and then. Usually the birds are relatively big shore or sea birds, and occasionally eagles. Usually they are fast-moving. My cameras, a Fuji X-T2 and Fuji X-Pro2, serve me well for most of my photographic pursuits, but not
In this video, Photofocus Publisher Rich Harrington and Author Levi Sim show you multiple strategies for manually focussing a camera. They’ll walk you through options like zooming on live view, focus peaking, and more. Plus you’ll learn how to get proper exposure when shooting in manual mode. Want to win
