I’ve been saying it for so long that it’s time to write about it! What I’m referring to is my often-given advice for capturing bracketed images. Many people say that we should choose the ‘correct’ exposure, then capture overexposed & underexposed images. However I recommend to forget the notion of the middle image being the ‘correct’ exposure. Rather, the ‘correct’ exposure is a series of images — and those images capture the full dynamic range of the scene. We can do that by measuring and choosing all of the exposures more deliberately. In short, I recommend to:
“Meter for the Highlights, then meter for the shadows, then set your camera to capture it all.”
Following my advice, and taking control of your bracketing, has a number of benefits:
- Of course you don’t risk losing any of the lighting information — the main purpose of shooting ‘brackets’.
- No excessive noise because you have captured the shadow areas well (noise happens mostly in underexposed areas)
- Full freedom to create realistic or artistic (or extreme) results. The ‘fake’ look mostly happens when the full dynamic range isn’t there, then pushing the adjustments too far.
- Processing is much easier and faster when starting with all of the information
- The whole process is just more satisfying!
So what does this look like in action? For the title image of this article, I first chose an ISO and Aperture… and, as always, those settings remain constant for the sequence. Then I pointed the spot meter in the camera out the window. In the underexposed image below, I saw the brightest part of the sky (on the right of the frame) to have a shutter speed of 1/500 second.
Then I pointed the spot meter at the dark area below the desk. In the overexposed image above, I saw 1/8 second for the shadows. If the convenient Exposure Calculator had existed at the time, I could have entered those values. In my case I counted the stops on my camera (counting the stops back from 1/500) and found the middle exposure to be 1/60. Here is what those numbers look like and the resulting 7 images:
This example has a dynamic range that is fairly extreme compared to most outdoor scenes. However I didn’t need to setup any lighting equipment and did the capture in mere moments. I combined the images in Photomatix Pro, this time I chose the ‘Smooth3’ Preset and clicked ‘Apply’. Then I added mild contrast in the Finishing Touch dialog and… all done!
Ron, I like this technique and want to try it. However, I’m unsure how to calculate the bracket in the field without the handy-dandy Exposure Calculator you linked to. Would you kindly explain (or point me to an explanation) of how to find the eV bracket value based upon the shutter speed? I tried to google this, but I must not be asking the right questions. Thanks!
Hi Bill, Actually you can use the calculator in the field if you have a smart phone connection (hdrsoft.com/ev). But you can do it without any fancy calculators too, just by counting the stops. If you have the stops memorized, then you could do it in your head after metering the extremes like I described. But I use the dial on my camera because I only can remember the old ‘full-stops’. For instance, start on 1/8 (in our example above) and turn the dial 3 clicks for each stop and just count them until I reach 1/500, then count back… Read more »
Ron, when I’m in the field I’m usually off the grid completely and have no cellular data available. Although I’m an older guy I didn’t really get into photography until the digital age and therefore do not have an understanding of the relationship between stops and shutter speed. Perhaps that will make a good post subject for you. Thanks for your reply.
Hi Ron, Another way to do this is after you have spot metered your highlights and shadows and found your high and low shutter values, you can set up your seven shot bracketing to start and stop on your highest and lowest exposures. It’s a longer way around because you have to figure out by trial and error if you need to bracket, 1/3 separation, or 2/3’ss separation , or a full stop. By matching your high and low shutter speeds in the view finder you no loner have to rely on an exposure calculator. The software is so good… Read more »
Hi Keith, it’s great to see you here!
Micro 4/3 cameras with the small/light lenses… no lights… pretty soon a camera bag will be like a dainty clutch at the opera! ;)
What you are describing for setting your Auto Exposure Bracketing sounds great for anyone comfortable with the process, and similar to what I normally do. One great use of the calculator is to visualize what you need to set, making it easier to figure it out sans-calculator after some practice. Still, the other day I pulled out the calculator just to make sure my in-head calculations were right.
Hi Ron,
Thanks for the great write up. Couple of questions though. In the description above, do you have the camera in Manual mode and then leave the ISO and Aperture settings constant and then just change the shutter speed, or do you shoot in Av mode and then use the Exposure Adjust to move the dial to the different plus and minus values?
In the second and third columns, what values do these represent?
Thanks a lot
Teddy
Hi Teddy, Yes you are right, the camera is in Manual Mode with ISO and Aperture remaining the same throughout the sequence — that’s very important. If the Aperture changes, the focus could be impacted resulting in a soft image when combining images of different focus. Regarding the columns, you are referring to the +3, +2, +1, etc. in the Exposure Calculator right? The + and – are showing the amount the shutter speed is above or below the center/middle exposure. Frankly I’m not sure why there are two columns with the same information, I’ll ask if I get the… Read more »
An innovative, significant addition to the use of HDR for capture of what the eye sees and the mind conceives
Ron, I like this technique and want to try it. However, I’m unsure how to calculate the bracket in the field without the handy-dandy Exposure Calculator you linked to. Would you kindly explain (or point me to an explanation) of how to find the eV bracket value based upon the shutter speed? I tried to google this, but I must not be asking the right questions. Thanks!
Hi Bill, Actually you can use the calculator in the field if you have a smart phone connection (hdrsoft.com/ev). But you can do it without any fancy calculators too, just by counting the stops. If you have the stops memorized, then you could do it in your head after metering the extremes like I described. But I use the dial on my camera because I only can remember the old ‘full-stops’. For instance, start on 1/8 (in our example above) and turn the dial 3 clicks for each stop and just count them until I reach 1/500, then count back… Read more »
Ron, when I’m in the field I’m usually off the grid completely and have no cellular data available. Although I’m an older guy I didn’t really get into photography until the digital age and therefore do not have an understanding of the relationship between stops and shutter speed. Perhaps that will make a good post subject for you. Thanks for your reply.
Hi Ron,
Thanks for the great write up. Couple of questions though. In the description above, do you have the camera in Manual mode and then leave the ISO and Aperture settings constant and then just change the shutter speed, or do you shoot in Av mode and then use the Exposure Adjust to move the dial to the different plus and minus values?
In the second and third columns, what values do these represent?
Thanks a lot
Teddy
Hi Teddy, Yes you are right, the camera is in Manual Mode with ISO and Aperture remaining the same throughout the sequence — that’s very important. If the Aperture changes, the focus could be impacted resulting in a soft image when combining images of different focus. Regarding the columns, you are referring to the +3, +2, +1, etc. in the Exposure Calculator right? The + and – are showing the amount the shutter speed is above or below the center/middle exposure. Frankly I’m not sure why there are two columns with the same information, I’ll ask if I get the… Read more »
Hi Ron, Another way to do this is after you have spot metered your highlights and shadows and found your high and low shutter values, you can set up your seven shot bracketing to start and stop on your highest and lowest exposures. It’s a longer way around because you have to figure out by trial and error if you need to bracket, 1/3 separation, or 2/3’ss separation , or a full stop. By matching your high and low shutter speeds in the view finder you no loner have to rely on an exposure calculator. The software is so good… Read more »
Hi Keith, it’s great to see you here!
Micro 4/3 cameras with the small/light lenses… no lights… pretty soon a camera bag will be like a dainty clutch at the opera! ;)
What you are describing for setting your Auto Exposure Bracketing sounds great for anyone comfortable with the process, and similar to what I normally do. One great use of the calculator is to visualize what you need to set, making it easier to figure it out sans-calculator after some practice. Still, the other day I pulled out the calculator just to make sure my in-head calculations were right.
An innovative, significant addition to the use of HDR for capture of what the eye sees and the mind conceives