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PUBLISHER’S NOTE: This post is an updated compilation of several shorter posts I wrote in the past trying to answer the question, “What camera should I buy?” It includes some new cameras in the recommendation section. But please note: The newest camera is NOT always the best camera.

It’s still the most popular question I am asked. “What camera should I buy?” Lately there’s a new twist to the question…”Is this brand camera better than that brand camera?”

No matter how hard I try to tell people that there’s no perfect answer, they keep asking. So since I can’t convince anyone otherwise, at least know the answers to THESE questions before you ask me YOUR question.

1 ) What subject(s) will you photograph most often? Weddings, portraits, wildlife, sports, landscapes, still lifes, food, fashion, etc.
2 ) What gear (if any) do you now own?
3 ) If you had to choose between ease of use and power, which would you select?
4 ) Do you want a compact pocket-sized camera (point and shoot) or a DSLR?
5 ) On a scale of 1-10 (10 being a working pro and 1 being someone who usually shoots with a disposable camera) how would you rate your skill?
6 ) What is the MOST money you’d be willing to spend on a camera?
7 ) How long do you think you might keep the camera?
8 ) What do your friends use?
9 ) Do you have a local camera store that can offer you support?

If you have thought carefully about these questions and have the answers – you should then be closer to knowing what the perfect camera for you might be.

Hopefully, your interest in photography is strong enough that you’ll read this entire article. That will give you the best chance of making the right decision. If you’re just not that interested, scroll all the way to the bottom to see some of the popular cameras that I recommend.

For those who stuck with me:

I know that beginners especially want this question answered. They are more likely to think that it’s the camera that takes the picture, not the photographer. Unfortunately for them, that’s not the case. And there’s no secret, magic or special camera that will make you into Ansel Adams.

Let’s start with goals. What goals do you have with your photography? Photographing the kids is much easier and less expensive than photographing wildlife. Making studio portraits will require a different kind of camera than that used by sports photographers. Do you want to turn pro or just make pictures you’ll share with your immediate family? Understand this simple truth: There is no perfect camera. And not all cameras are designed for all types of photography. Many photographers have more than one camera, depending on how many photographic pursuits they are engaged in at one time.

You’ll need to take into account a wide variety of factors when selecting a camera, and the first is budget.

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Photo by Scott Bourne

Photo of Ron Brinkmann by Scott Bourne made with Nikon 24-70 on an Olympus OMD body w/ Novoflex MFT adapter

I decided to test the Novoflex MFT adapter with my Olympus OMD-EM5. My pal Frederick Van Johnson and I were in Santa Barbara, CA and he brought out is Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 lens. I had the Novoflex Adapter MFT Nikon version. The short version of this post is simple. The thing works.

The longer version.

There are many inexpensive Micro Four Thirds lens adapters on the market. But I’d heard most don’t hold up. I’ve tested some cheap Chinese knock offs that are so loose the lens wiggles on both ends. I decided to try the Novoflex to see if it’s worth the extra money. At first blush, it’s obviously a precision piece of gear, very well made. It’s made out of very sturdy materials and has good heft and weight to it. It’s not cheap plastic like some of the adapters I’ve tried. There is no give or play when it’s connected to the camera and/or lens.

In my short-term test I found it focused well at infinity (something the cheaper adapters don’t do well) and that it passed through some of the electronic information sent by the lens to the camera body.

In the case of the Nikon 24-70 paired with the Oly OMD, I found that although there is no autofocus, the facial recognition system works well. You can use the big blue ring to act like an iris stopping down or opening up to adjust exposure. You set your shutter speed on the camera and you set the aperture on the blue ring. There is no precise adjustment of aperture on the ring. I found it just worked best to use it to gain a good exposure.

It works particularly well with lenses that don’t have aperture rings such as the Nikon “G” mount lenses.

One side benefit is that if you shoot video on a MFT camera, you get the type of iris control with this adapter that serious motion picture camera operators are used to. While it’s not as precise, you can use your eye by checking the Live View mode to see if the exposure looks right. I got a kick out of trying that and think it makes the adapter worth the money even if you don’t use it for stills.

While I’ve linked to the Nikon version, Novoflex makes MFT adapters for Leica M & R lenses, Minolta MD lenses, Canon FD lenses, Sony/Minolta AF, Pentax K and Contax/Yashica lenses. There are also M42, T2 and OM adapters.

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The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

Guest Post & Photos by Levi Sim - Circle Levi on Google+

 Photo by Levi Sim

I know it’s a cheesy image for the title, but it’s an image with a story so bear with me.

I made this picture a few months ago and it happened to be at a pivotal time for my family. We were visiting Oregon from Utah and were suddenly considering moving to Oregon, and life was feeling a lot like this image: we had a clear road in front of us, but we couldn’t see where it ended.

Moving my family and my photography business to a new state where we had no contacts has been the scariest venture I’ve ever undertaken because I don’t have anything established: no clients I can call and remind to do new pictures, no group of students I can expect to take my next class at the community college, and no studio I can invite my club members to join me in for a quick project. At the same time, I’m not worried because I’ve learned from so many terrific resources how to establish myself as a photographer, and it’s the same stuff I did when I quit my day job a couple of years ago to go at this full time.

For instance, Scott Bourne has not only been sharing terrific photography tips and techniques, but he’s also been giving out sage business sense right here for years. He teamed up with Skip Cohen and penned the wonderful  book Going Pro that is chock full of specific methods for creating a photography business. Skip Cohen University has been teaching me how to make better pictures and lasting client relationships. There are countless publications and resources I turn to regularly for instruction and advice, and they always come through.

So, while I’m anxious about not knowing where this road leads, thanks to all these resources I know I can handle whatever comes. And that’s real freedom. It’s freedom to live passionately and chase my dreams.

Whether you’ve recently realized your passion for photography or you’ve been shooting for decades, you know what the next step down your road is. Just take that step, and know that the people of this wonderful photography community will help you get ready for the next one.

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lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

FP600DG
Light is light. That’s the simple statement. But you can buy lights that cost $200 each or $20,000 each. The old saying “You get what you pay for” is true, but not 100% true. Take the Flashpoint DG600 moonlight. This thing is amazing and at under $200 is probably the best buy in studio lighting I’ve seen in 40 years.

The Flashpoint DG600 300 w/s AC/DC Monolight is Adorama’s house brand. And based on all the gear I’ve tested, their house branded gear is always a great value for the money.

The DG-600 works off AC or DC power. It’s lightweight, very portable and even has a built-in LED modeling lamp. There’s a built-in optical slave and in my tests, the unit worked with both sync cord (supplied) and remote trigger (Pocket Wizard not supplied) to offer the best of both worlds. You can easily control the power and the quality of light, even bare bulb is very nice.

At full power, on AC, the DG600 needs only 1.5 seconds for a full recharge. Shoot at half power and that drops to three quarters of a second. Shoot at one/quarter power, and – well you get the idea.

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

The above photo was made with the DG600 as the main light. A Flashpoint beauty dish and stand were the other primary components in the shot. The strobe functioned as expected and I got the result I was looking for.

The DG600 ships with a simple 8″ reflector. I like using this unit with the Flashpoint II 27″ Soft Reflector, Beauty Dish ($135 from Adorama.) Throw in an inexpensive travel stand, an umbrella for working with groups and for around $400 you have the control of a studio strobe for less than many hotshoe-mounted flash units cost.

Highly recommended, especially for people who are just starting out and don’t want to commit a large sum of money. I also think this is a better choice than camera flash (it works with both AC and DC power) and is cheaper than the high-end flash units most manufacturers use today.

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This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

51L+RnKGb8L31z61r-8X8LIf you are a regular reader here at Photofocus you know I have switched to micro four thirds as my primary camera format. At the top end of MFT you will find Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH3 and the Olympus OM-D E-M5.

I bought the OMD-E-M5 merely because it came out first. I bought a bunch of lenses, all Olympus other than one Panasonic (Fisheye) because I thought it just made sense to avoid paying for stabilization in the Panasonic lenses, when the Oly had five-axis-based sensor stabilization.

But it wasn’t until my recent trip to Alaska that I actually had some time with the GH3 and decided to write a short post about the GH3 and how it compares to the OMD.

I should note that I have some familiarity with the Panasonic range of cameras. Way back in September of 2009 (it seems like 100 years ago) I used the Panasonic GH1 to shoot video while teaching at the Maui Photo Festival. I liked the video from that camera very much, but ultimately felt that the GH1 lacked what I needed as a stills camera, so I kept my DSLRs and used the GH1 for video. Fast forward to three and half year’s later and the video from the Panasonic just keeps getting better. So has the stills image quality.

Let’s start with the basic run down on where the cameras differ. There’s no need to make a list of what they do alike. You can find spec lists all over the Internet that offer that comparison. I’d rather concentrate on the differences.

The GH3 is more expensive by 15-30%. It’s also significantly larger and heavier. It has a fully articulating screen that tilts and swivels. The OMD screen only tilts.

The OMD has a faster frame rate – nine frames per second v. six on the GH3.

The EVF is slightly larger in the GH3 than on the OMD.

The GH3 has a built-in flash and WIFI. The OMD does not.

The battery life on the GH3 is roughly 30% better than on the OMD.

The OMD has slightly better autofocus. The OMD has about 30% more autofocus points.

The GH3 offers stabilized lenses with no built-in image stabilization on the sensor. The OMD takes the opposite approach and offers stabilization on the sensor but not the lenses.

Lenses from either camera work on either camera body and otherwise, the cameras are essentially the same when it comes to specs. But in the real world, how do they compare?

I like both cameras. I think they compliment each other. One (the OMD) is for stealth. It is small enough that you can get away with shooting it in places where cameras are often forbidden. It can be confused with compact point and shoots. For photographers who want stealth this is a good thing. The GH3 on the other hand looks like a typical, smallish DSLR. For photographers who worry their clients won’t take them seriously if they have a small camera or who have big hands, the GH3 form factor will be appealing.

The image quality (stills) from the Olympus seems better to me than the GH3. This is purely subjective and would depend on shooting conditions. On the other hand, the GH3 is remarkably better at shooting video. It’s as if Panasonic designed this camera to shoot video. Some well-known filmmakers are incorporating the GH3 into their workflow much as they did the Canon 5D MK III.

Moving to the lenses, both companies offer some great ones. The Panasonic zooms tend to be a tiny bit better in my opinion than the Olympus zooms. Olympus offers some of the sharpest primes for MFT and some of the sharpest primes anywhere. Overall I prefer the Olympus glass.

There is one other big difference. Panasonic has hired a dedicated person to reach out to the pro market. Whether or not he will have the budget and/or the power to make this work is yet to be seen. It would give Panasonic an edge over Olympus with pros.

As a pro, if you rely on your gear day-to-day, you need fast, reliable repair times and/or loaners. Olympus once told me they had a program like this but when I asked for details, and contacted the person in charge of it, I got no response. My own experience getting Olympus cameras repaired proves that you better have lots of patience if you need that service. If Panasonic can make good on a professional services department, they will get a point in this column.

But for now, I’d say it’s close to a tie. I have dedicated video cameras so I don’t need the GH3 and I already have several OMD-EM5s and more than a dozen MFT lenses. The OMD and the GH3 are more similar than not, and you can’t go wrong picking one over the other.

The take away from this should be simple. If you want to save money, like the smaller footprint, and primarily shoot stills, you will most likely gravitate to the Olympus. If you want a larger form factor, stabilization in the lens, shoot lots of video and want pro service, you’ll probably buy the Panasonic.

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lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images. Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo – Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

41hd5Tb4rhL
A long time ago in a galaxy far away, Nikon created the original 80-400 VR lens. This wasn’t a particularly sharp lens. It was sufficient to its task, but I always thought it fell short in the image quality department. It was a long time before Nikon took a second stab at this lens and the wait was worth it.

The new Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S Zoom Lens is long overdue. It is not called the “MKII” or anything like that. It merely has the AF-S designation as opposed to the original “AF.”

The new lens is heavier, features a more sophisticated vibration reduction (VR) technology, costs a lot more, has three more optical elements and is generally better all around.

I shot the lens on a new Nikon D7100. It was fast to focus and was sharp in the center at every f-stop. It felt good in the hand and was crisp, for lack of a better word. At the extremes (wide open and stopped all the way down) there is some fall off in the corners, which is to be expected on a big zoom lens of this type.

I also noticed less barrel distortion.

Now the million dollar question…do you need this lens?

At $2700 the new version of the 80-400 is much more expensive than the original. Having recently shot the Sigma 50-500 on my Alaska eagle trip, I’m not sure I’d say the Nikon is worth $1200 more. If money is no object, then of course, I’d buy the Nikon. But if money is tight, try the Sigma 50-500. It doesn’t focus as fast, is bigger and heavier but also has longer reach at the telephoto end and is wider at the short end.

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This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images. Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo – Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

The other day we posted about a nifty plug-in from Digital Film Tools that emulates film. The reaction was amusing. All 12 of the remaining film shooters in our audience felt the need to subject me to the appropriate amount of faux outrage. Their responses were predictable and I think come from the same general set of misconceptions.

If you’re young, and were born into the age of computers, you may tend to romanticize about the good old days you never experienced. I’ve shot more film than most of you. Digital only became available in the last half of my career and I spent more time shooting film than I have yet shooting digital. I was there. I did it every day. I lived it. It wasn’t that great.

Those of you who are of the religion of low – light would have hated it. Tri-X had – (insert Jaws music here) GRAIN! You would equate that to noise and you would hate it. But you would get it at ISO 400 not ISO 25,600 like you do now. “Low-light performance” wasn’t a phrase I ever heard uttered by anyone back in the day.

There was no Photoshop. No HDR. No stitched panoramas. And if something went wrong you were stuck. Retouchers were very limited in what they could do. They were few, expensive and slow. Negative retouchers were even more difficult to find. Essentially – you had to get it perfect in the camera. You had to make compromises.

Film was expensive, and processing more so. The chemicals used in the process were so dangerous that the EPA regulated them. They were officially declared bio-hazards. The heavy metals involved are still doing damage to our ecosystem.

It was hard to make very large prints from film. If you shot for publication you had to use very expensive drum scanners that weren’t all that good.

I could go on – but the fact is, it wasn’t all that much fun. And just because it’s hard to do – doesn’t make the result any better. Nobody cares. Seriously. Your photos aren’t better because you worked harder to make them. They are still just your photos.

Now I know there are a few beanie-wearing “ARTISTES” out there who say that’s the way it should be. To them the process is more important than the outcome. They have a right to their opinion. I have a right to mine too. And I try my best to get it right in the camera but sh*t happens. And when it does I am grateful for the new digital tools that can fix it. If you’re one of those hung up on the process – then you are probably not making great images anyway.

If I’m lucky enough that 100 years from now, my images are still in circulation, and people are still talking about them, nobody will look at my work – either digital or film – and say “I wonder if that was Tri-X?”

It’s silly.

The image is what matters. Period. How you got it is only important to you and those in the camera club you are trying to impress.

Shooting film doesn’t make you an artist. Neither does starving, wearing a beanie and a scarf for that matter. Having vision, heart, dedication to craft, earned and learned skill, a genuine story to tell, empathy and passion for your subject, etc., THOSE things make you an artist. The process? It’s just like the hammer to the nail. The sooner you get that, the sooner you move toward being great.

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This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images. Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo – Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.