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Photofocus Podcast – Rich Interviews Ben Willmore

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 5, 2013
Posted in: News, Tips. Tagged: Adobe, Creative Cloud, Creative Suite, Max. 1 comment

To our loyal listeners…  I apologize deeply for the delayed post.  I broke my own rule about backing up to 3 locations and had to wait for a lost bag to arrive.  Hope you enjoy this fun interview.  We’ll be back with a bonus podcast from Adobe MAX in a short bit too.

NOTE NOTE NOTE NOTE NOTE: The Photofocus Podcast Feed HAS CHANGED!

Here is the new feed: feed://feeds.feedburner.com/photofocuspodcast
Download episode here…   or get it on iTunes

PLEASE BE PATIENT – OUR SERVERS SEE LARGE LOADS ON PUBLISHING DAYS. THE DOWNLOADS MAY GO SLOWLY BUT THEY WILL FINISH.

Rich takes a deep dive with photographer and photograph expert Ben Willmore.

Topics include:

  • Traveling nonstop to find photos
  • Why he literally lives out of his camera bag
  • His love of Americana and engineering
  • When he chooses to shoot HDR
  • His post workflow to finish images for professional printing

Download the episode here…

Hosted by Rich Harrington

_______ 

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

 

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Learn What’s Coming Next from Adobe

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 5, 2013
Posted in: News. Tagged: Adobe, Adobe Creative Cloud, Creative Cloud, Photofocus, rich harrington. 2 comments

MAX2013-karlsson-wilker-eventsemail-header-648x292

 

The Adobe Max conference kicks off at full speed on Monday.  Adobe has two keynote addresses you won’t want to miss.  These are free to attend online.  This will get you up to speed on all the big announcements as well as some inspiration.

 

Day 1: A Creative Evolution

Monday, May 6, at 9:30am PDT | Time zone conversion ›

The process of where and how we create is dramatically changing thanks to major advancements in technology, and there has never been a more exciting time. Join Adobe CEO Shantanu Narayen, Adobe SVP and GM of Digital Media David Wadhwani, and a collection of Adobe visionaries across digital photography, illustration, video, web design, and more as we unveil brand-new creative workflows and capabilities. We’ll take a look at the present and set our sights on the endless possibilities in our creative future.

 

Day 2: Community Inspires Creativity

Tuesday, May 7, at 10am PDT | Time zone conversion ›

Join David Wadhwani as he welcomes four incredibly creative minds to explore how they foster creativity and approach their work. You’ll hear from Rob Legato, an Oscar-winning visual effects supervisor; Paula Scher, an iconic graphic designer and illustrator; Erik Johansson, an up-and-coming photographer and retouch artist; and Phil Hansen, a constraint-based artist who believes limitations drive creativity. We think you’ll leave with more than a few new ideas to incorporate into your next creative project.

 

Register here —  http://max.adobe.com/sessions/online/register.html

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images. Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo – Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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What Camera Should I Buy? UPDATED VERSION – May 2013

Posted by scottbourne on May 4, 2013
Posted in: Opinion. Tagged: camera buying, cameras, DSLR, photo, photography. 8 comments

PUBLISHER’S NOTE: This post is an updated compilation of several shorter posts I wrote in the past trying to answer the question, “What camera should I buy?” It includes some new cameras in the recommendation section. But please note: The newest camera is NOT always the best camera.

It’s still the most popular question I am asked. “What camera should I buy?” Lately there’s a new twist to the question…”Is this brand camera better than that brand camera?”

No matter how hard I try to tell people that there’s no perfect answer, they keep asking. So since I can’t convince anyone otherwise, at least know the answers to THESE questions before you ask me YOUR question.

1 ) What subject(s) will you photograph most often? Weddings, portraits, wildlife, sports, landscapes, still lifes, food, fashion, etc.
2 ) What gear (if any) do you now own?
3 ) If you had to choose between ease of use and power, which would you select?
4 ) Do you want a compact pocket-sized camera (point and shoot) or a DSLR?
5 ) On a scale of 1-10 (10 being a working pro and 1 being someone who usually shoots with a disposable camera) how would you rate your skill?
6 ) What is the MOST money you’d be willing to spend on a camera?
7 ) How long do you think you might keep the camera?
8 ) What do your friends use?
9 ) Do you have a local camera store that can offer you support?

If you have thought carefully about these questions and have the answers – you should then be closer to knowing what the perfect camera for you might be.

Hopefully, your interest in photography is strong enough that you’ll read this entire article. That will give you the best chance of making the right decision. If you’re just not that interested, scroll all the way to the bottom to see some of the popular cameras that I recommend.

For those who stuck with me:

I know that beginners especially want this question answered. They are more likely to think that it’s the camera that takes the picture, not the photographer. Unfortunately for them, that’s not the case. And there’s no secret, magic or special camera that will make you into Ansel Adams.

Let’s start with goals. What goals do you have with your photography? Photographing the kids is much easier and less expensive than photographing wildlife. Making studio portraits will require a different kind of camera than that used by sports photographers. Do you want to turn pro or just make pictures you’ll share with your immediate family? Understand this simple truth: There is no perfect camera. And not all cameras are designed for all types of photography. Many photographers have more than one camera, depending on how many photographic pursuits they are engaged in at one time.

You’ll need to take into account a wide variety of factors when selecting a camera, and the first is budget.

This post continues below….

Continue Reading

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What Are You Waiting For? Start Importing Images into Lightroom 5!

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 3, 2013
Posted in: Screencast, Video Podcast. Tagged: Adobe, Camera Raw, Levi Sim, Lightroom, Photofocus, Photoshop. 1 comment

Guest Post & Photos by Levi Sim – Circle Levi on Google+

Join Levi Sim as he walks you through how to set up a catalog in the new Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5 Public Beta. This is an excellent tutorial to get you up and running right away.

The Lightroom5 Beta is a great opportunity to try Lightroom, and this video will get you started with the first step: importing your images. This is the only thing my students ever have trouble with and getting started the right way makes all the difference. Once Lightroom recognizes your images in the Library module, you’ll be ready to use the simplest photo finishing tools on the planet. Take a few minutes and learn how to get started with Lightroom5.

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This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images. Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo – Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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Master Vibrance and Iris Blur in Photoshop

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 3, 2013
Posted in: Screencast. Tagged: Black and White Adjustment Layer, Iris Blur, Photofocus, Photoshop, rich harrington, Sponge Tool, Vibrance. 2 comments

compare_PFVibrance

I’m a big fan of controlling where the viewer looks within a photo.  In this short tutorial I show you how to use two adjustments in Photoshop to quickly guide the viewer’s eye.  You can make similar adjutments in Lightroom.

Master Vibrance and Iris Blur in Photoshop from RHED Pixel on Vimeo.

 

_______ 

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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10 Quick Bird Photography Tips

Posted by scottbourne on May 2, 2013
Posted in: Technique & Tutorials. Tagged: 10 Quick Bird Photography Tips. 6 comments
Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

I have made literally hundreds of thousands of bird photographs over the last 15-20 years. No matter how many times I photograph birds, I still find myself learning new tidbits that I might take for granted but that may be helpful for you. So here goes.

1. Background, background, background. If you don’t have a clean background you don’t have a good bird photo. Pick your backgrounds before you decide where to shoot.

2. It’s nearly impossible to photograph song birds, some raptors and other birds without setting up a perch and drawing the birds in. You need four things to do this. A clean place for the bird to perch, cover, food and water.

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

3, If you decide to set up a perch make sure you use local vegetation – it both aids in drawing in the birds and it makes the photograph more believable. You won’t find many arctic terns nesting on a cactus. Darker colored perches are less troublesome exposure wise.

4. Bird feeders are the easiest way to attract birds but if you’re going to put out a feeder make sure you use quality feed, and that you feed consistently, otherwise the birds will get sick or grow to rely on the feed and perhaps not find sufficient nourishment if you stop feeding. Tray feeders located near a water source and good perches will keep you shooting all day.

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

5. Use the smallest tray feeder you can find. Otherwise too many birds will just stay on the feeder and not land on the perch.

6. Remember that birds tend to fly or hop from perch to cover while they eat. They typically like to land on the same perch over and over so just be patient. When the bird leaves the perch there’s a good chance it is coming right back.

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

7. Use a long lens. Something in the 400-600mm range will give you enough distance from the birds that you shouldn’t scare them.

8. Shoot from a blind. Inexpensive bag blinds or hunting blinds are ideal for concealing yourself from the birds. They will be much more likely to hit your perch if they can’t see you lurking nearby.

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

Photo by Scott Bourne – Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

9. Allow plenty of distance between your perch and background. The further away the background is from the perch, the more pleasing the bokeh.

10. If you’re photographing water birds, find a way to shoot from ground level. Water birds never look right when you are shooting down on them.

These are just 10 random tips. I could give hundreds more. The bonus tip is just go out and try it. Photographing birds requires patience but can be fun and very rewarding.

_______ 

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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Good Composition – Cropping People Like The Pros Do It

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 1, 2013
Posted in: Screencast, Technique & Tutorials, Tips. Tagged: cropping, landscapes, people, Photofocus, Tom Shue. 1 comment

Guest Post by Tom Shue - Follow Tom on Twitter.

Cropping People

Composition is the act of framing the subject with respect to the the relationship of foreground and background elements. Basically it’s how you express a vision and how you want your story told through a photograph. Composition has many elements and each one can have a huge impact on it, let me name a few:

  • Rule of thirds
  • Leading lines
  • S-curves
  • Point of view
  • Orientation (portrait or landscape)
  • Depth Of Field
  • Symmetry
  • Texture
  • Cropping (the element we will discuss today)

Composition and Cropping are huge topics, so I am just going to try to give you some tips that I use when “Cropping People.”

Cropping people and cropping landscape images are a bit different. With landscape images you usually just crop until you have eliminated the distracting elements (while making sure the horizon line is level). With people, you do the same with respect to removing distracting elements but you must ensure the subject is the primary focus of the frame.

There are some things that you might have heard like “I have to shoot loose to leave space to fit an 8″ x 10″ frame” or “Cropping in post is for farmers”. Don’t get caught up in the words, just remember to think before you shoot. Try to remove distracting elements in the viewfinder and frame the subject based on the intended final use of the image.

You are going to have several opportunities to crop your image.

  • Cropping in camera. Try to place the subject in the frame in such a way they are the main focus of the image.
  • Cropping in post. You’ll get a chance to crop your image is in post (Lightroom or Photoshop). With today’s massive file sizes, and the fact that often, images are being used for the web, you can freely crop in post with little worry of exhausting resolution.
  • Cropping when framing. The last chance you might crop is when you frame an image. Yes, I am one of those who still mounts prints and often time use the matte board as a cropping point to help solidify composition. Just remember whenever you crop, that you are doing so with the direct intention to strengthen the composition of the final image, or just don’t do it.

When making images of people, you may find yourself cropping a full length, a three-quarter, a bust or a headshot image. Each one of those crops will have some rules that you might want to consider.

  • Full length: In a full length, you must always have the hands and the feet in the frame (always).
  • Three-quarter: In a three-quarter shot, do not crop too close to a joint and never at an ankle or a knee.
  • Bust: Make sure that if you decide to remove the hands do not do it at the wrist. Consider cropping above the elbow so the subject does not look like they have an amputation.
  • Head shot: It’s always best to try to fill the frame with a headshot. Try to put one the eyes (the one closest to the camera) on one of the points of interest, usually in the upper third of the frame. Also in a head shot don’t worry about cropping off the top of the head, this is normal. Just keep an eye on the top third of the frame and it will work.

These cropping rules are the ones that I use. Please try them and see if they help you make better images. Thanks for taking time to visit today.

_______

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images. Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo – Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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