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(NSFW) Using Negative Fill Flash

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 16, 2013
Posted in: Technique & Tutorials. Tagged: lighting, negative fill. 1 comment

Guest Post & Photos by Abba Shapiro — Follow Abba on Twitter

Final Image Canon EOS 5D Mark III Shutter speed 1/125   Exposure: 6.3 ISO 100 Canon 240105@97MM Post-processed with Silver Efex Pro and Photoshop

Canon EOS 5D Mark III
Shutter speed 1/125 | Exposure: 6.3 | ISO 100
Canon 240105@97MM
Post-processed with Silver Efex Pro and Photoshop

I find when photographing people – controlling light is the key.

I often see photographers diligently re-positioning their strobes to control the light – but rarely controlling the dark.  Negative fill can make or break an image.  Light is a pesky fellow – it can bounce around a room, reflect of odd surfaces, and light your talent from angles you never expected.  That is where negative fill come in.  Large pieces of black foam core or black reflectors, which block stray reflections and absorb ambient light from your strobes.

I usually try to place this negative fill as close to my subject as possible – sometimes so close that I require Photoshop to hide or remove it.  Usually the closer it is  – the better it works – however sometimes placing your negative-fill too close can actually throw light on your subject.. Black is black – but bear in mind different surfaces have different levels of reflectivity – so you may get different results from a piece of foam core vs. a black pop-out reflector.  And when it comes to fabrics satin, muslin, felt and velvet will all give different results.

Test shot — Model: Brynn Canon EOS 5D Mark III Shutter speed 1/125   Exposure: F4 ISO 100 Canon 240105@47MM

Test shot — Model: Brynn
Canon EOS 5D Mark III 
Shutter speed 1/125 | Exposure: ƒ4 | ISO 100
Canon 240105@47MM

In this shot I wanted quite a dramatic contrast between the light and dark areas…so in addition to using negative fill, I lit using a single strobe modified with a 1 X 3 strip box and fabric grid. I did a test shot without the model first to ensure that there was no stray light.  I then positioned her and the light and took meter readings at her cheek, shoulder, and hip. During the shoot I had her selectively rotate parts of body to vary the amount to light falling on her face and torso.

Everything was shot Camera Raw and a “bit to the right” – Which basically meant I over-exposed the image about one stop.  I know that way I could still bring back the details in the highlights and maintain very clean shadows.

In post I converted the image to Black and white with Silver Effects Pro and placed a vignette over the image to further control the shadows

_______ 

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

Mosaic — A complete solution for photographers using Lightroom who want to manage and share their photos.  You can easily view images with their iOS app or web service.  Plus your photos are backed up to the cloud with several plans to match your needs.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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Canon 5D MK III – Drobo 5D Contest Winner & More Chances To Win

Posted by scottbourne on May 15, 2013
Posted in: Tips. Tagged: camera contest, photo contest.

screen-shot-2013-02-15-at-6-44-25-pm

It’s one of my favorite things to do. I get to give stuff away and give people a chance to live out their photographic dreams…

Everyone else gets at least hope out of the deal!

Today I announce the winner of a Canon 5D MK III and Drobo 5D

Congrats to: @WGeorgeCook 

Mr. Cook please e-mail me at photofocus@me.com with your postal shipping address and phone number and you will receive your prize shortly.

Didn’t win? There are more contests open. Just check our OPEN CONTEST page on Photofocus.

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Photofocus Podcast with Special Guest Skip Cohen

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 15, 2013
Posted in: Audio Podcast. Tagged: business, Canon SL1, fujifim x100s, marketing, Pentax WG-3, Photofocus, Rich Ha, Scott Bourne, SCU, skip cohen.

NOTE NOTE NOTE NOTE NOTE: The Photofocus Podcast Feed HAS CHANGED!

Here is the new feed: feed://feeds.feedburner.com/photofocuspodcast
Get the show here  or get it on iTunes

PLEASE BE PATIENT – OUR SERVERS SEE LARGE LOADS ON PUBLISHING DAYS. THE DOWNLOADS MAY GO SLOWLY BUT THEY WILL FINISH.

Join RIch and Scott as they take a quick look at 3 new cameras.

  • Scott offers his insights o n the  Fujifilm X100S.
  • Rich then talks about first impressions of testing the Pentax WG-3 GPS rugged camera for shooting sports and underwater.
  • Last is a look at the Canon EOS Rebel SL1 — the world’s smallest DSLR.

The second half of the show will inspire you to develop your professional side. Rich sits down with Skip Cohen who shares practical advice for professionals and emerging pros. He talks about marketing strategies that work to drive photo business as well as lessons learned from several years spent on all sides of the industry.

Download  — http://photofocuspodcast.libsyn.com/webpage

Hosted by Rich Harrington & Scott Bourne

_______ 

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

Mosaic — A complete solution for photographers using Lightroom who want to manage and share their photos.  You can easily view images with their iOS app or web service.  Plus your photos are backed up to the cloud with several plans to match your needs.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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Enter To Win A Free Nikon D800 & 1 Year Mosaic Professional Backup Service

Posted by scottbourne on May 14, 2013
Posted in: Contest. Tagged: camera contest.

product_thumb.php

Welcome to the next Photofocus contest. This contest starts May 14, 2013 and ends August 15, 2013. The winner gets the following:

Nikon D800 Body Only and

Mosaic Archive 2TB Backup Professional Plan free for one year

(PLEASE READ THIS PAGE CAREFULLY – IT ANSWERS ALL YOUR LEGITIMATE QUESTIONS ABOUT THE CONTEST!)

Here’s how to enter.

- Follow @ScottBourne on Twitter (http://www.twitter.com/scottbourne)
- Follow @mosaicarchive  on Twitter (http://www.twitter.com/mosaicarchive )

(If you are already following no need to unfollow and refollow – doing so repeatedly will get you permanently blocked and banned from our contests — we have recently blocked or banned several hundred followers who engaged in this practice after the last contest – if you are amongst those people – sorry – no need to enter because you are not eligible.)

- Tweet the message you see highlighted below once! (There is no advantage to tweeting more than once. There is also no penalty for tweeting more than once, but you won’t have any better chance of winning and you may anger your own Twitter followers if you decide to tweet more than once. Please keep track of your own entry here - http://photofocus.com/open-contests/. We can’t (and won’t) respond to requests asking about entry status.)

Twitter has changed its policy to no longer allow disabling of link shortening – so if you need to use a different link to get to the same exact contest page that’s fine. As long as people end up on this page – that’s all that matters. The rest of the Tweet must be identical to the one below.

Do NOT put the @ sign in front of Scott Bourne in the tweet. This is to cut down on noise to people who follow you and me.

Here is the Tweet:

Enter for a chance to win a Nikon D800 & Free Yr Mosaic Archive Pro from @mosaicarchive & Scott Bourne. Info http://bit.ly/15K8nVY

Official Rules: All general Bourne Media Group/Photofocus contest rules apply. In addition:

No purchase necessary to enter or win.

1. You must be 18 years or older to enter
2. You must be following Scott Bourne (http://www.twitter.com/scottbourne) and Mosaic Archive on Twitter –  (http://www.twitter.com/mosaicarchive)
3. You must send out the above tweet EXACTLY as it appears. A failure to do so will disqualify you.
4. The prize will be announced on August 15, 2013 by Scott Bourne via Twitter and on Photofocus.com.
5. US residents responsible for any taxes (if any) incurred as winner. If you live outside the US you are responsible for any taxes, custom duties and shipping in the event you win. We will only ship the prize to a US address. Foreign winners must be able to retrieve the prize from a US address to be eligible to win.
6. If users make lots of Twitter accounts in order to enter a contest more than once, they’re liable to get all of their accounts suspended. Anyone found to use multiple Twitter accounts to enter will be ineligible.

Scott Bourne will keep a record of each tweet in a database and then a random number generator picks the winner. Due to the volume of requests we receive, we cannot and will not answer ANY questions about the contest on Twitter or via e-mail. The information you need is all right here.

We are proud to be working with Mosaic Archive. Not only do they keep your photos safe, they let you see them on your portable device. Check out their amazing service and signup for their great, free Lightroom newsletter – MosaicArchive.

As always, if you are not a fan of these contests, please don’t participate. For the tens of thousands of you who do enjoy the contests, we’ll continue to try to find new contests and new prizes that will make it fun and interesting to be a part of the Photofocus family. Thanks for your support.

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Fuji X100s Camera Review

Posted by scottbourne on May 14, 2013
Posted in: Reviews. Tagged: Fuji X100s Camera Review.
Use this link to see a high-res version of this shot - http://www.flickr.com/photos/applephoneshow/8732211775/sizes/o/in/photostream/

Use this link to see a high-res version of this shot – http://www.flickr.com/photos/applephoneshow/8732211775/sizes/o/in/photostream/

All photos in this post are Copyright Scott Bourne - Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs Creative Commons

There’s no doubt that Fuji has been shaking up the photography world lately. They’ve come up with some cameras that some describe as retro. I’d call them oddly wonderful. They all have a learning curve and they all have one other thing in common. They are hot commodities. Not everyone is taken with Fuji. Their first efforts in this space came up short in my opinion. And the X line is a bit polarizing. It’s like owning a Fiat 500. Some people run up and tell you it’s the coolest car they’ve ever seen. Others think it’s stupid. No matter where you fall on that spectrum, you should take another look at Fuji because their second iteration X100s is worth your consideration.

100% crop of detail area

100% crop of detail area

I decided to buy the Fujifilm X100S camera for review. I had no idea how hard it would be to try to find one. It was no easy task. The cameras is quickly gaining a reputation as a fun little unit that can be used for serious work. All the usual big name camera stores are sold out of the X100s. But the great folks at PRO PHOTO SUPPLY in Portland were able to get their hands on the last one anywhere and shipped it to me right away. I got the camera Friday, installed the latest firmware (version 1.02), charged the battery and went to work.

The basics of the X100s are simple. The camera uses a rangefinder metaphor and looks a little like the famous Leica cameras of old. (Specifically – it reminds me of the M3.) The internals are however quite different. The camera uses an APS-C 16M X-Trans CMOS sensor. (This is a very innovative sensor that delivers extraordinary low-light performance and super clean, sharp images.) There is no other company producing such a sensor and this is just the first place where the X100s is different. The sensor on the X100s (like the one on the Nikon D800e) doesn’t have an anti-alias filter. Instead Fuji uses what they call a color filter matrix (whatever that is) to accomplish the same thing. Unfortunately, Adobe Camera Raw doesn’t quite know what to do with it – more on that in a  minute.

Panoramic shot stitched in-camera

Panoramic shot stitched in-camera

Fuji has also developed a new hybrid viewfinder. Most cameras in this class use an electronic view finder, but Fuji figured out a way to make a cross-over viewfinder that gives you both an optical viewfinder and an electronic viewfinder. It’s not only different, it’s amazing. It’s quirky and takes a few days to get used to, but once I got the hang of it I found myself thinking (“Why isn’t everyone doing this?”) I prefer an optical viewfinder every time.

The camera has a fixed focal length lens (23mm f/2) EFL of 35mm f/2. So in some ways it might be tempting to consider this no more than a point and shoot or pocket camera, but it is much more. And it will only fit in your pocket if you’re big like me! Regardless of how you classify it, the technology and the results it generates are both very sophisticated and professional.

Shot using the camera's faux HDR filter.

Shot using the camera’s faux HDR filter.

The camera handles well. Because of its overall quirkiness you need to shoot with it a while before you get comfortable. But it’s rock solid and well-constructed. It offers a die-cast magnesium alloy top and base plate. While it’s solid, it doesn’t feel heavy. In fact, it feels downright light.

Like other mirror-less cameras I’ve tested, battery life is nothing to write home about. I got between 250 and 275 shots per charge depending on how I used the camera. I’d suggest buying a second battery when you get the camera. Heck I’d suggest getting three. One problem with the camera is the battery life indicator is sort of like a fuel gauge on a motorcycle. It says you have a full tank, then 3/4 and then half and then…then nothing. The battery dies off pretty much right after you get to the half-way point on the battery meter. Fuji should tune this up in the next firmware update.

If you read the reviews of the original X100 you might be worried about the camera’s autofocus. Well no need to. The AF is just fine. It’s not lightening-quick like the Olympus OMD but it’s not far behind. There is also a neat option to allow focus peaking (used typically in video cameras) that aides in manual focus. A fellow who is famous for reviewing cameras he’s never seen says the manual focus ring isn’t that easy to use. I completely disagree. In my opinion, the Fuji X100s is one of the easier cameras in the world to manually focus. And while the focus peaking doesn’t work as well as it might in a video camera, it works well enough.  There is also an option that allows you to use an old-fashioned split-prism (found in most rangefinder cameras) to manually focus. My eyesight isn’t good enough to use this feature but I also like the custom setting that allows you to just touch the manual focus ring, and the camera zooms to 100% of the center of the image. Olympus offers this on some of its cameras, including the OMD and I really like it. In most cases I just use autofocus with great results.

First RAW file I processed. It took a little extra work but came out fine. I am not sure it is any better than it could have been in JPG only.

First RAW file I processed. It took a little extra work but came out fine. I am not sure it is any better than it could have been in JPG only.

The Fuji lens fitted to the X100s is very sharp. It’s a just a tiny tad soft wide open (not distressingly so) but f/2.8 and beyond it’s spot on and ultra-sharp. It also has amazing close-focusing distance (0.21 meters.) Did I mention the lens is sharp? Well it really, really is. And it provides a very pleasing bokeh. The distortion on the lens, even wide open is almost immeasurable. Oh and one more astounding feature offered with this lens – it uses a leaf shutter. Yep you can use 1/800th of a second sync shutter speeds (the shutter sync speeds depend on how much you stop down.) This is great for using flash outdoors or in bright or backlit conditions. It’s also dead quiet. This camera is quieter than any camera I’ve shot with in a blimp. You could shoot movie stills all day with this and nobody on set would even notice. If stealth is your game, then this is your camera.

The camera also comes with a cute little built-in flash that’s perfect when you just need a little catchlight in the eye. If you know what you’re doing, you can actually use it to overpower harsh sun for a little fill on the face or a nice catchlight. It’s actually useful. It also acts as a trigger for optical slave strobes.

In the field I started my tests shooting the Fuji in JPG mode. The only other Fuji digital camera I ever tested worked well in this mode but I can safely say that jpegs from the X100s are simply the best out of the camera jpegs I’ve ever seen. Period. The color is magnificent, skin tones perfect and overall look enjoyable. This may be the first camera I’ve ever owned that I won’t shoot full-time in RAW mode.

This is the camera's filter emulating a tilt-shift effect.

This is the camera’s filter emulating a tilt-shift effect.

Even in jpeg mode the camera seems to have a very wide dynamic range. And since you’re using a fast lens, Fuji throws in a built-in, three-stop ND filter to help knock down the light on bright days. I’ve been saying for years someone needs to do this and Fuji is the one to get it right. Man I love this feature.

I like that you can shoot in square format or 16×9 or 3×2, etc. This helps pre-visualize the scene. I also like playing with the art filters. Some of them are pretty good. I was less impressed with the in-camera panoramic stitching. It works better in scenes without solid color. There’s plenty of banding (which you can remove in post) but it’s just easier to stitch panos in Photoshop.

The meter is solid. The camera response time is good. The image quality – well that is freaking amazing. IQ is all that matters to me when I select a camera and the X100s has stupendous image quality.  Up to ISO 1600 the camera is superb. Even at ISO 3200 it’s very good. The noise there isn’t the kind that stands out. I am blown away by the low-light performance of a camera with this size sensor. It’s superior to anything I’ve tested.

1/4000th sec at f/4 ISO 200 Processed RAW in LR4

1/4000th sec at f/4 ISO 200 Processed RAW in LR4

You’ve seen me say this is an odd – quirky camera. Here’s an example: The camera does take a while to wake up from sleep so I set mine to high-performance mode and the maximum time before shutting off. It is still very sluggish to come back to life. I find that I have to turn the camera off and back on to wake it up reliably and quickly. Not a deal breaker but something that you should be aware of.

Accessing all the cool features of this camera takes practice. The shutter speed, exposure compensation, and aperture control are all dials. Aperture control is on the lens, where it belongs (older photographers will rejoice at this – we are used to this being how to set the aperture.) You set the “drive mode” by pressing the drive button and then using the scroll wheel to make your selection. This lets you choose single shot, three or six frames per second, multiple exposure mode, auto bracket mode, movie mode, and panoramic mode. The view mode button lets you select between LCD, viewfinder or both. The AE button lets you set your meter mode. The AEL/AFL lock button works as expected. You can cycle between three different info display modes using the display button. There is a command wheel that makes it easy to get to WB, Flash and and Macro mode. There is also a function button that you can assign to do about any job (I have mine set to ISO) and that’s where things become dicey. I would have really liked an actual ISO dial because most of the camera’s controls are buried in nested menus. That function button could come in handy for lots of other features. Thankfully, Fuji took most (not all) of the sting out of the deep menu system with a quick menu button (also called a “Q” button,) Olympus has made these popular. The Q-botton gives you quick and convenient access to the camera’s important functions. You can see the quick menu in either the viewfinder or on the LCD.

1/1700th sec at f/4 - macro mode approximately 4.5 inches from the subject.

1/1700th sec at f/4 – macro mode approximately 4.5 inches from the subject.

With all this cool stuff you’d expect a stiff price tag and you’d be right. The camera cost $1299. You can buy a D7100 for that. You can buy many other low-end DSLR’s with kit lens for much less. And for that kind of money you would think that Fuji threw in the kitchen sink. But oddly, there are a few things missing. There is also no GPS or WiFi. There is no intervalometer. There is no lens hood. (Fuji must be copying Olympus. Come on Fuji. $1300 and no lens hood? Really?) In fact, you can’t even screw on a filter without the Fuji adapter. They sell the hood and the 49mm filter adapter as a kit for under $80 (Fujifilm LH-x100 Lens Hood And 49mm Thread Adapter.) So really, you have to consider the cost of the camera to be $1379 since you can’t really use it without the hood and adapter. (Nickel and dime stuff always bugs me but it’s the way things are.)

It seems that the younger generation care more about what their cameras look like than my generation did. And retro is in. There’s no disappointment here. The X100s has loads of character and lots of folks think it’s an old time camera at first blush. To make it feel even more retro, check out the LC-X100 leather case. Now your ticket is punched at more than $1500, but in for a penny in for a pound.

PROS

1. Super sharp lens
2. Amazing, professional-level image quality
3. Lightweight, compact and stealthy
4. Best in-camera jpegs in the world
5. Film-emulation built in
6. Leaf-shutter lens
7. One of the best low-light performing cameras I’ve tested
8. Just plain fun

CONS
1. Expensive
2. Limited to built-in lens (EFL 35mm) NOTE A screw-on wider-angle adapter is also available for this camera from Fuji. I did not test it.
3. Short battery life
4. Too many nested menus
5. The tripod socket is too close to the battery door making it impossible to use straps like the Black Rapid strap.
6. There is no way to mount a filter to the fixed lens without buying an expensive adapter.

CONCLUSION

The Fuji X100s is a quirky, odd, retro camera with a fixed focal length lens and it cost more than most DSLRs. But it’s also quieter, smaller and easier to carry than most DSLRs. It’s expensive for sure. But it happens to offer some of the finest in-camera image quality I’ve seen in any digital format and at any price. Those of you who practice the religion of low-light will also be thrilled with its dynamic range and low-light performance up to ISO 6400.

The camera’s competition is not the DSLR, it’s the other retro-style, compact cameras. On paper, the X100s does not stand up well to cameras like the Olympus PEN E-P5 (just announced and untested so I said “on-paper.”) But I doubt that will deter many potential buyers. Fuji has done a good job of marketing this camera and while it has its quirks, I am certain it’s the most fun camera I’ve owned in a long time. It’s worth waiting for.

Street and travel photographers will love this camera. It also has a place in landscape, event and automotive photographers’ cases. The EFL 35mm lens is not ideal for standard portraiture but would be fine for environmental portraits. If you can live with the fixed lens, you could conceivably use this as your only camera and do well.

You can find more versatile cameras and cheaper cameras but you’d be hard pressed to find a cooler camera that delivered perfect jpegs without the need for post-processing and stellar image quality.

Highly Recommended.

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images. Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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Relighting a Car in Post

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 13, 2013
Posted in: Screencast, Technique & Tutorials. Tagged: lighting, masking, Photoshop, post. 3 comments

Guest Post & Photos by Levi Sim - Circle Levi on Google+

© Levi Sim

I wanted to make a photograph of a car that looked like it had been shot in one of those fancy studios with the enormous soft boxes, but I had to do it on the grass at the fair grounds. This video shows how I made it happen using layer masks in Photoshop.

Relighting a Car in Post from Photofocus Video Channel on Vimeo.

_______

 

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images. Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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How to Sign Your Work

Posted by Richard Harrington on May 12, 2013
Posted in: Tips. Tagged: finsihing, Photoshop, signature. 7 comments

A popular trend these days is to sign your images when posting online.  The thought is to treat the image more like it was being shown in a gallery and less like pixel dust in the wind. The process is really pretty easy to do.  I’d also like to state that this is a much more attractive way to watermark a photo.

Here’s the process for Photoshop Users

  1. Sign your name… take your time and give it a few tries.  If you’re using pen and paper, go with a thicker felt tip pen or marker.  If using a tablet, that works too.  Be sure to create a nice large signature so you’ll have plenty of pixels to work with.
  2. Scan or digitally capture the signature at a very high resolution.  You’re likely adding this to high-resolution imagery, so better to start large and scale down (instead of up).
  3. Clean up your signature with a Levels adjustment to make the whites and blacks crisp.
  4. Save two versions of your file.  One black on white and one white on black.  You can choose Image > Adjustments > Invert to make a negative image.
  5. When you’re ready to sign, choose File > Place and navigate to your signature file.  Choose the black or white signature based on your photo background.

  6. Scale the image to taste by dragging a corner handle.  Be sure to hold down the shift key to constrain the proportions of the scale.
  7. When ready to place the image, press the Return (Enter key).  The layer is added as a Smart Object which can be scaled or resized as needed.
  8. To blend the signature file, change the layers blending mode.  Use Multiply to drop out the white background or Screen to drop out the black.

There you have it… a classy watermark that’s easy to reuse on all your online photos.

Do you have a favorite way to sign your digital images?  Share it in the comments please.

_______ 

This Post Sponsored by:

lynda.com Learn photography anytime, anywhere, and at your own pace—from bite-sized tutorials to comprehensive courses. Try lynda.com free for 10 days by visiting lynda.com/ Photofocus.

The HDR Learning Center Check out new ways to use High Dynamic Range photography to make compelling images.  Free tutorials and posts to get results. Produced in partnership with HDR Soft.

The Topaz Labs Image Enhancement bundle. Open up a world of creative possibilities with a seamless, integrated workflow. You don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to look like one. Click here and use the code photofocus to get a 15% discount.

Gigapan.com. The revolutionary GigaPan EPIC robotic camera mount lets you capture and combine thousands of images into one incredible, interactive panorama. Save 10% with the code PHOTOFOCUS.

Drobo - Not only is Drobo 5D fast, but it’s easy-to-use, expandable, flexible, and protected.

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