Copyright Scott Bourne 1997 - All Rights Reserved
I don’t use many filters on my lenses these days. There’s very little I can’t do better in post. But I still use Polarizer filters. And I know that some of you still use other filters. So here are a few quick tips for getting the most out of your filters.
a. Don’t buy cheap filters. Putting a cheap plastic filter in front of an expensive piece of glass doesn’t make sense. Buy optical-quality filters. They’re worth the extra money.
b. Avoid using stacked or multiple filters, especially when you’re shooting with shorter lenses. You can run into vignetting problems or face problems with additional light refraction.
c. Using a red filter when you want to shoot black and white will bring out the contrast in the scene.
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Do you know why it is that a red filter will bring out the contrast? I’ve always been curious. Perhaps wiki will tell all.
Do you know why it is that a red filter will bring out the contrast? I’ve always been curious. Perhaps wiki will tell all.
I’m with you, Scott. The only filter I use is a CP – that is it. Photoshop serves me well for any other effect that a filter might do for me. Other then maybe a ND filter – that I do not have ATM anyway.
I’m with you, Scott. The only filter I use is a CP – that is it. Photoshop serves me well for any other effect that a filter might do for me. Other then maybe a ND filter – that I do not have ATM anyway.
Scott, regarding c: maybe you should mention that other colours create a different look and feel. So you should pick a colour filter depending on the mood you want to recreate. You could for instance pick yellow.
I found this guide for the set of Cokin Filters for B&W, with images showing the effect of the different colours: http://www.geocities.com/cokinfiltersystem/id77.htm
just my 0.02$
Scott, regarding c: maybe you should mention that other colours create a different look and feel. So you should pick a colour filter depending on the mood you want to recreate. You could for instance pick yellow.
I found this guide for the set of Cokin Filters for B&W, with images showing the effect of the different colours: http://www.geocities.com/cokinfiltersystem/id77.htm
just my 0.02$
The color filter for B&W thing seems like the perfect example of what can be done easily in post. At least it seems that way to me … am I missing something?
The color filter for B&W thing seems like the perfect example of what can be done easily in post. At least it seems that way to me … am I missing something?
The last filter suggestion (red filter 4 contrast in BW) can also be done in post, or am I missing something?
The last filter suggestion (red filter 4 contrast in BW) can also be done in post, or am I missing something?
I always use a UV filter on all my lenses. In fact, I buy one for each lens as I add it to my collection. Even if you don’t buy the “UV interference with metering” argument. They make a nice inexpensive protective barrier for the expensive glass.
Yes you can easily apply a red filter in post to pump up saturation. It’s just that if you still shoot in B&W mode in camera either via film or digital, the red filter at the camera stage helps you “see” the final results better.
Yes you can easily apply a red filter in post to pump up saturation. It’s just that if you still shoot in B&W mode in camera either via film or digital, the red filter at the camera stage helps you “see” the final results better.
I have a different opinion on the UV filters. I think UV filters are a complete waste of time and money. I know people who obsess over every little detail in a $4000 lens and then slap a $12 piece of plastic over it. Doesn’t make sense to me. The “Protect the lens” thing that started that was created by the camera retailers as a way to sell add-ons. I’ve never damaged the front element of a lens in more than 30 years of shooting. Also, if you use your lens hood (and you should) then you provide plenty of extra protection for the front of the lens. And what’s more, the front element is always the cheapest to replace if it does get damaged. Case in point – the Lens HOOD (not the glass) but the HOOD on my Sigma 300-800 F/5.6 costs $590 to replace. The front lens element cost $88.
I have a different opinion on the UV filters. I think UV filters are a complete waste of time and money. I know people who obsess over every little detail in a $4000 lens and then slap a $12 piece of plastic over it. Doesn’t make sense to me. The “Protect the lens” thing that started that was created by the camera retailers as a way to sell add-ons. I’ve never damaged the front element of a lens in more than 30 years of shooting. Also, if you use your lens hood (and you should) then you provide plenty of extra protection for the front of the lens. And what’s more, the front element is always the cheapest to replace if it does get damaged. Case in point – the Lens HOOD (not the glass) but the HOOD on my Sigma 300-800 F/5.6 costs $590 to replace. The front lens element cost $88.
If you are going to shoot RAW and post proses, do you still want to use a red filter?
If you are going to shoot RAW and post proses, do you still want to use a red filter?
Your right about UV filters being inexpensive protection for high value Glass. Just an fyi if you didn’t know. if your shooting with Digital, there is a UV layer incorporated on the sensor. but I’m told that having the UV filter does not hurt anything and like you said. It’s great protection and peace of mind for good glass.
Your right about UV filters being inexpensive protection for high value Glass. Just an fyi if you didn’t know. if your shooting with Digital, there is a UV layer incorporated on the sensor. but I’m told that having the UV filter does not hurt anything and like you said. It’s great protection and peace of mind for good glass.
Scott, when you say ” optical-quality filters”… how do you know they are? Sorry, i am a DSLR noob.
Scott, when you say ” optical-quality filters”… how do you know they are? Sorry, i am a DSLR noob.
No
No
No problem Tofa usually they cost a great deal more. A B+W optical polarizer for a 300mm lens might set you back $225 while a cheap plastic one would be $35. Hoya and B+W are two brands that offer optical glass but check to be sure since not every filter they offer will be glass – some are plastic.
No problem Tofa usually they cost a great deal more. A B+W optical polarizer for a 300mm lens might set you back $225 while a cheap plastic one would be $35. Hoya and B+W are two brands that offer optical glass but check to be sure since not every filter they offer will be glass – some are plastic.
Something to keep in mind, even a good UV filter can increase lens flare, even one that is multicoated to minimize reflections. If you have a good grip, then you probably will never need the extra protection, if you have butterfingers like me, then it may be worthwhile. It’s a personal choice you have to make. I have yet to break anything, but I’ve not been doing this for very long.
Something to keep in mind, even a good UV filter can increase lens flare, even one that is multicoated to minimize reflections. If you have a good grip, then you probably will never need the extra protection, if you have butterfingers like me, then it may be worthwhile. It’s a personal choice you have to make. I have yet to break anything, but I’ve not been doing this for very long.
Any of you folks have any experience with neutral density filters? I’d like to take some moving water or smokestack photos in bright daylight and get the movement blur of the steam/smoke/water. I’ve never used one before and would love to hear anyone who has.
Any of you folks have any experience with neutral density filters? I’d like to take some moving water or smokestack photos in bright daylight and get the movement blur of the steam/smoke/water. I’ve never used one before and would love to hear anyone who has.
Scott, wouldn’t the red filter in a DSLR reduce the useable pixels to 25% ?
(if the sensor is 50% green, 25% blue and 25% red)
I currently only keep in my bag a polarizer, and a couple of graduated ND filters (to save me time with not having to bracket and later create a HDR image).
Tip – get the best filter and save quite an amount of $$$ if you buy the largest and then use adaptor rings for the smaller lenses instead of getting a filter for each! :)
@ Dave – the large rectangular graduated ND filters may actually be used as a full ND filter in some cases – if this helps you in any way! :)
Scott, wouldn’t the red filter in a DSLR reduce the useable pixels to 25% ?
(if the sensor is 50% green, 25% blue and 25% red)
I currently only keep in my bag a polarizer, and a couple of graduated ND filters (to save me time with not having to bracket and later create a HDR image).
Tip – get the best filter and save quite an amount of $$$ if you buy the largest and then use adaptor rings for the smaller lenses instead of getting a filter for each! :)
@ Dave – the large rectangular graduated ND filters may actually be used as a full ND filter in some cases – if this helps you in any way! :)
No because if you are shooting on a DSLR in B&W mode those colors have already been eliminated. The red filter just brings out the contrast before the post process.
No because if you are shooting on a DSLR in B&W mode those colors have already been eliminated. The red filter just brings out the contrast before the post process.
For movement blur in bright daylight (>10sec exposures) you possibly need on of the darkest ND filters around. I have a B+W 103ND filter which has a 3 f-stop reduction, and I cannot shoot in bright daylight. I need the dusk to shoot those images (which is fine, since the light is nicer).
A B+W Neutral Density ND 3.0 or denser gives you an additional 10 f-stops or more.
A 77mm filter costs around $75USD (smaller == cheaper).
Note: self timer or remote control is kinda mandatory when shooting long exposures.
For movement blur in bright daylight (>10sec exposures) you possibly need on of the darkest ND filters around. I have a B+W 103ND filter which has a 3 f-stop reduction, and I cannot shoot in bright daylight. I need the dusk to shoot those images (which is fine, since the light is nicer).
A B+W Neutral Density ND 3.0 or denser gives you an additional 10 f-stops or more.
A 77mm filter costs around $75USD (smaller == cheaper).
Note: self timer or remote control is kinda mandatory when shooting long exposures.
I saw a flash that has a red plastic attachment on it’s head. Would it be for the same reason as B&W contrast effect are you have mentioned on C.?