I am not a fan of UNSHARP mask in Photoshop, but I know that many photographers still use it. So if you must use it, here is a way to reduce the ugly halo effect that unsharp mask can create on color images.
First convert your image from RGB to LAB color space. Then apply the UNSHARP MASK to only the LIGHTNESS layer in the CHANNELS palette. This will bring out the detail and will make your image appear sharp without shifting your colors or creating halos.
Then you can convert back to RGB.
sometimes a Lab roundtrip can be problematic.
Another option is to lift the composite view into a new layer, apply the unsharp mask to this new layer and then set the blending mode to luminosity.
sometimes a Lab roundtrip can be problematic.
Another option is to lift the composite view into a new layer, apply the unsharp mask to this new layer and then set the blending mode to luminosity.
So if you don’t like unsharp mask, how do you sharpen?
So if you don’t like unsharp mask, how do you sharpen?
Another way to prevent halos, create a duplicate of the layer to be sharpened, sharpen this and create another duplicate of the sharpened layer. Now you can set “Darken only” to the first sharpened layer and “Lighten only” (or “brighten only” or however this is called in Photoshop) for the other sharpened layer.
Adjusting the layer opacity of both you can achieve a great, sharp image without any halos. As the bright halos are disturbing and the dark ones, don’t, usually the darkening sharpened layer will have more opacity than the lightening one.
Another way to prevent halos, create a duplicate of the layer to be sharpened, sharpen this and create another duplicate of the sharpened layer. Now you can set “Darken only” to the first sharpened layer and “Lighten only” (or “brighten only” or however this is called in Photoshop) for the other sharpened layer.
Adjusting the layer opacity of both you can achieve a great, sharp image without any halos. As the bright halos are disturbing and the dark ones, don’t, usually the darkening sharpened layer will have more opacity than the lightening one.
I use Nik Sharpener Pro.
I use Nik Sharpener Pro.
Alex in what ways do you find this problematic? I have never had any problems using this method.
Alex in what ways do you find this problematic? I have never had any problems using this method.
Thanks for the reminder Scott. I have heard of, and used this method in the past, but never made it a permanent part of my workflow. I’m sure you will get some more sharpening options from this blog entry. Here’s mine.
One way that I like to sharpen my images is by creating a duplicate layer of what I want sharpened, then I go to Filter >Other>High Pass. I adjust the slider to show me some good edge detail. Then I change the blend mode of that layer to Overlay. I like having my sharpening on a separate layer because of the flexibility it gives me with having the options of adjusting the opacity of the layer, or masking out areas that I don’t want to sharpen at all.
Thanks for the reminder Scott. I have heard of, and used this method in the past, but never made it a permanent part of my workflow. I’m sure you will get some more sharpening options from this blog entry. Here’s mine.
One way that I like to sharpen my images is by creating a duplicate layer of what I want sharpened, then I go to Filter >Other>High Pass. I adjust the slider to show me some good edge detail. Then I change the blend mode of that layer to Overlay. I like having my sharpening on a separate layer because of the flexibility it gives me with having the options of adjusting the opacity of the layer, or masking out areas that I don’t want to sharpen at all.
It’s so common to temporarily use a different color space, I wonder why these apps (Photoshop and Gimp) don’t make this a bit more automatic. It seems like it would be possible to create “virtual” color channels.
It’s so common to temporarily use a different color space, I wonder why these apps (Photoshop and Gimp) don’t make this a bit more automatic. It seems like it would be possible to create “virtual” color channels.
I’m using Focus Magic almost exclusively. I’ll have to try some of these other methods.
I’m using Focus Magic almost exclusively. I’ll have to try some of these other methods.
It can be problematic in that if you are not fluent in the nature of color spaces and the appropriate ways and means of switching from one color space to another, you can get some ugly color shifting. Rather than trying to massage the unsharp mask by changing color spaces, it could conceivably be easier to use Photoshop the way it works best – with layers. If you are fluent with color spaces, gamuts and such, then sure, the suggested method works fine. How many of us are really up to speed on color gamuts though? I like Alex’s method, but as we all know, there’s more than one way to skin a cat, especially with Photoshop! :)
It can be problematic in that if you are not fluent in the nature of color spaces and the appropriate ways and means of switching from one color space to another, you can get some ugly color shifting. Rather than trying to massage the unsharp mask by changing color spaces, it could conceivably be easier to use Photoshop the way it works best – with layers. If you are fluent with color spaces, gamuts and such, then sure, the suggested method works fine. How many of us are really up to speed on color gamuts though? I like Alex’s method, but as we all know, there’s more than one way to skin a cat, especially with Photoshop! :)
I agree with you Scott that you can really over do it with PS unsharp mask. I personally use the aperture edge sharpen tool and sometimes the sharpen one (generally edge sharpening is enough). Isn’t it best though to get your focus right with your camera? Because even a blurry photo will never be “sharpened” by PS or Aperture or anything else (yet). Right?
I agree with you Scott that you can really over do it with PS unsharp mask. I personally use the aperture edge sharpen tool and sometimes the sharpen one (generally edge sharpening is enough). Isn’t it best though to get your focus right with your camera? Because even a blurry photo will never be “sharpened” by PS or Aperture or anything else (yet). Right?
Scott,
I am a faithful Aperture fan, but relatively new to digital output and printing. I use the “Sharpen” tools in Aperture before printing and export, but I have little idea whether I am doing things right. Any guidelines on how, when, and how much sharpening to apply.
Does Aperture have the same problem with halos and ghosting that you describe in Photoshop.
Love your show,
Thanks,
Mark
Scott,
I am a faithful Aperture fan, but relatively new to digital output and printing. I use the “Sharpen” tools in Aperture before printing and export, but I have little idea whether I am doing things right. Any guidelines on how, when, and how much sharpening to apply.
Does Aperture have the same problem with halos and ghosting that you describe in Photoshop.
Love your show,
Thanks,
Mark
I’m afraid we’ve gone a bit off topic here. I didn’t intend for this to turn into a discussion of preferred sharpening methods. This was merely a tip for those who do use Unsharp Mask. I’ll open up a broader dialog in a future post where I address some of these other methods.
I’m afraid we’ve gone a bit off topic here. I didn’t intend for this to turn into a discussion of preferred sharpening methods. This was merely a tip for those who do use Unsharp Mask. I’ll open up a broader dialog in a future post where I address some of these other methods.
Scott, that would be great!
Scott, that would be great!